Originally Posted by NachoRT74
Originally Posted by John_Kunkel
Originally Posted by NITROUSN
[When using high out put alternators the alternator should be CORRECTLY wire sized and CORRECTLY wired direct to a distribution block with protection on that circuit. The distribution block would be linked direct to the battery. All circuits then would be CORRECTLY fused with relays as needed out of the distribution block.


Some C-bodies of the seventies had such a distribution block in the form of an insulated stud that mounted on the inner fender panel near the battery...when junk yard hunting in the old days I used to snatch these up for use on my rods. Hi-amp loads like power windows/seats and tailgates drew their power from this stud.

Nowadays I use this:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rra-fs46540


Yes, on B bodies with those same options, these accesories were sourced straight from amm stud on batt side (which is the same than using a junction close to the battery like the one you described ) instead the alt side like regularly should be because these are not constant power suckers, just ocassional. Leaving these on batt side, the ammeter will register the small amount of the charge load the battery lost when working althought for more time depending on alt speed, but will be safe from the load peak they suck on the operation moment. Just like the starter motor, which its operational load is not registered on amm, but the load lost after crank up getting back to the batt (charge) slowly and on lower rates than what was used to work once alt is able to do it when spinning.

I think I mentiond this on a previous reply… not extensively detailed like I did now.


Just more jiberish on a hack job.