If you are going to hand hone the cylinders use a hone like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-15000-...;hvtargid=pla-4583520395219740&psc=1And you need a dial bore gauge to check your work. https://www.amazon.com/Dial-Indicator-Bore-Gage-Industrial/dp/B0B84QSCYF/ref=sr_1_51?crid=2Z81L1WUGC13H&keywords=dial+bore+gauge&qid=1678971333&sprefix=dial+bore+gauge%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-51&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc
And can you reuse those rings? Depends, but the rings are designed to wear into the cylinders, the cross hatch pattern is there to hold oil so this process happens without developing too much heat in the bores. I have done what you described and got away with it in a pinch. And don't worry about getting all the minor pits and scratches out of the bores. I always leak test a new engine on the stand as a base line. You most likely will lose a few percent of leak, and maybe a few HP as well. But it will run. On my race car I don't really see a big loss in ET until the leakage gets to 30% or worse. When new cold on the stand I want 10% or better. Of course if you gap the rings for nitrous you will get more leak.
