Hey Larry,


I adjust my stuff the same way blue97 pointed out. AFAIK there really are two ways of adjusting, both of them appear to be the total opposite as it relates to the position of the throttle pressure circuit level & valve itself:

1) adjust for as little pressure as possible
- this means that at idle you basically move the trans lever forward as far as possible

2) adjust for as much pressure as possible
- this means that at WOT you basically move the trans lever backward (towards the rear) as far as possible

In effect, that lever ties-in to the governor circuit (rotating governor weights) and allows the proper shift to occur as a balance between how far has the "loud pedal" been moved to the floor and how fast the driveline itself is already rotating. The idea here being that with little pedal being applied you want the speed of the vehicle to naturally transition to an earlier shift. With more pedal applied, the idea is that you are expecting greater engine power and therefore the governor circuit must be overriden by the throttle pressure circuit in order to prevent an earlier than desired shift from taking place.

I run a Lokar setup on my coupe, so the whole thing is tuned to provide the kind of shift I want, given the gearing I'm running, the engine powerband, the transmission shift-kit settings I implemented, etc. For that reason, I use #2 method above because I know the MAX pressure setup I'm aiming for and I use the "back off from that max" approach to tuning my shifts.

If you start with #1, you basically move up to a higher RPM shift point, as opposed to starting with it.

Without taking anything else apart, put a bolt & nut stopper into that linkage ahead of where the normal end of the carb throttle slot is. That will basically allow your throttle pressure circuit to act as if you had actually pushed the pedal harder than you had actually done. The end result should be that your shift RPM is higher.

If this test pans out, you know what to do next. Either adjust correctly by executing #2 method, or if you have no binding of any sorts (and your carb throttle goes from idle to WOT just fine) you might be able to simply use the bolt & nut stopper as a work-around.