LH side has 1 bolt, no adjustment for insulator, and one thru bolt for mount. RH side "finds" it's own position, adjustment slots let it float to the place it should be.
Al has seen the photos. He's bending the Pitman arm approx 1/8th inch which should drop the other end approx 1/2 inch. I'll report back when I've put it on.
While that may make it work it is not what I would be doing. In my opinion bending parts that have to do with steering is a NO-NO.
There may be more variability than that in stock parts. It this works vs dropping the k-frame, its a huge win. You seem to think these are precision machines. Yet completely stock and never modified cars using the same wheels and tires have significant differences in rear wheel clearance.
I'd prefer "perfect fit", but thats more of an engine thing. Except my Gen 2 Mopar hemi block has the fuel pump opening machined off center. Not a problem until I put a stock mechanical pump on... and the fuel pump rod didn't meet up with the mopar fuel pump. An electric pump, while more trouble, fixed the issue. Would you rather I pull and dis-assemble the engine, weld up the openings, and re-mill the block and bore a new pushrod hole? Or use a cost-effective fix? This isn't a funny car. It hasn't driven 500 miles in 18 years. I want it to be driven. I'm old enough it may need to go to a younger steward to care for, for some years, and again. I don't own it so much as take care of it. its a privilege to do so, but sad when I can't keep it driveable. Its also a 318 car, so I'm not guilty enough to keep it stock. Just looking to improve it while in my care.
