When using the amp meter at the time the test is started we use a second cable run in parallel to the meter. That way any current flowing when modules go to sleep is uninterrupted. Start on the 10 amp scale and remove one end of the jumper. Read the scale. If the draw is low enough reconnect the jumper. Switch the meter to the lower scale. Now remove the jumper. This is why we use a calibrated shunt. Everything stays connected. You just read the millavolt scale on the meter I also find it helpful to latch the door latches. Or in the case of an older car remove the dome fuse or plunger switch. That way you can test with the doors open. I do these tests often. I work in prototype debug at FCA. It’s amazing what will cause an issue. Many times it gets down to removing fuses, modules, switches one at time waiting and watching. Can be very time consuming on the new stuff.
Doug

Last edited by dvw; 12/30/20 10:30 AM.