Originally Posted by cudadoug
Originally Posted by pittsburghracer
Lots of guys like me to spend big money for little gain. Again 95% of us are bracket racers or street n strip guys so thin ring packs, lightweight components, belt drives, and vacuum pumps show little gains. A 5.00 lock ring on your distributor works wonders and is surely cheaper than other options out there. As far as deck plates I personally don’t use them. How long does a dead prefectly machined block in the machine shop stay perfect when the crank is bolted in place with 8 rods and spinning 7200 rpm. Now throw in the “heat factor). What does the block do when at Racing temps. Do you think it stays perfect like in the machine shop. Your guess is as good as mine but I’m thinking no. I like spending around 1000.00 to machine a block and balance an assembly at a shop I trust rather than crazy money making the shop owner rich. If it makes you sleep better at night then go ahead and spend big money. If you are sitting at home because you can’t afford the tricks, maybe it’s time to stop believing the ragazines written by guys that get paid to suggest you spend your hard earned money.


The lack of a deck plate use surprises me. I thought that was standard in any HP build. The difference is plate honing cost is minimal in my area, so why not make every effort to maintain block integrity?






I Feel my junk runs pretty good without it. I guess the R3 block in my Duster now has been bored with deck plates but not by me, and when I rebuild it over the winter I will be hand honing it myself. My machine shop that I use probably doesn’t even have a small block Mopar deck plate. I never bothered to ask.

1970 Duster
Edelbrock headed 408
5.984@112.52
422 Indy headed small block
5.982@112.56 mph
9.42@138.27

Livin and lovin life one day at a time