Originally Posted by stroked470
I have a 65 Coronet that I recently bought and I am trying to sort out my last issue with it. I put on a set of dual electric fans and 26 inch radiator to keep it cool and settled that issue.

But created few new problems.
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My first night out with it the voltage regulator went out. It had a stock type points regulator on it.

You ought to removee the cover and see what went wrong. Even if you don't fix it, it will be useful information.
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Right now it has a square back parts store alternator on it. I switched to a stock looking electronic voltage regulator yesterday and it is charging again, KINDA. It is only showing around 12.6-12.8 at the battery at idle, if I rev it up it goes up to 14.3-14.5 but right back down at idle. This is with the fans off.

The voltage following rpm up to the set point was normal.
But at idle, with no additional equipment and battery in good condition, it should have been a little higher IMO.
Being a new to you car, its worth checking the idle speeds and the pulley diameters.
A 100 rpms difference at the crank can make 200 to 300 rpm difference at the alternator -and that can be huge!

Here's some output curves so you can see what I'm saying about rpm vs. power producing capability.
Capability is what Nacho just was describing. The actual amount of power flowing out depends on the demand.
So taking a stock '68 Coronet, demand by the coil and the rotor with engine running and battery charged, will be around 4 amps.

file_002.jpgtas_alt_12si_curve-Engine-rpm.jpg