Thanks for replying Brad. When you talk to a vert shop and mention street, its the end for getting a good 60footing vert. They get stuck on that street thing. Lenny didn't recommend loosening, but said if I wanted he would loosen it a bit. It is going back to him. You need a 8" vert for what your doing. ATI says N/A engines need 8" convertors. Big power, big convertor. Power adder cars need 9, 9.5 or even 10" for big turbo engines making huge power.
I don't think I have the room for the clutch fan. I have another idea for the electric fan as im looking for higher output fans than the spals 990cfm rating and I have an idea how to incorporate a T stat in the housing.
First time out I was running good AFR's thru the traps with 12.3, 12.5, 12.7 and 13.2 on fastest pass when the temp dropped. I tried HS air bleed change which leaned things too far, .028 to a .030.
Associate valve springs. I'm told by Todd at Compititionwedgeengines they are good quality springs and they produce some of the other big name springs out there. They are set up at 1.930 with 145# on seat and 410# open pressures. I spoke with Dwayne the other day, he did suggest pulling a couple and have them tested to be sure.
No spinning. Car hooks great , goes straight without any hesitation and makes you think your breaking all the records til you get to the ticket booth.
I just richened the rear jets 2 sizes since on straight 93 and no 110 in the mix it runs a tad leaner. I just bought 2 cans of unleaded 98 octane oxygenated to try.
Not sure what that's about either with the loss at the end of the track. When I foot brake I have to hold the brake real hard to keep the car from moving. The vert feels tighter than when it was behind the SB, so its getting a loosening. I may try a different intake and I told Dwayne I wouldn't switch his cam out, I may down the road if nothing else works. This will be my winter project and try again in the spring.