You might (1) set the initial with the "vacuum gauge method", (max vac in drive/idling then back off the INITIAL till the VACUUM drops 1 in hg & this is what the eng will see stoplight to stoplight & if it dont balk when cranking when hot you are good on the initial then (2) set the total (initial+springs) to 36 (38 in some cases), (the $25 FBO plate is the best deal in the house for this on a "regular" dist then (3) mix/match springs so that you are just under the pinging point at WOT up thru the gears on your hottest/driest (most likely to ping) day & peoples' hearing varies so give it a cushion, you want to be close to the pinging point but NEVER/EVER over it then (4) plug in the can to ported & adj the tip in with a 3/32 allen wrench till you are just under the pinging point in everyday driving under varying RPM/load conditions. there are manifold tuning afficionados but I ain't never tried it but some swear by it as opposed to ported. "Quicker/close" would be to set the initial to 20 then the total to 36 then work with the springs then plug in the can. First I would have the carb somewhat "close", at least not too lean