I agree with the above. Somewhere around just dribbling out. Fine tune from there.

Originally Posted by Crazy68Dart
A few weeks ago I recurved the distributor back to the stock springs and set mechanical adv to 24 degrees total. Based on this I set initial to 14 degrees.

I'm sure that's what you meant. So its around 36 total on the engine. smile
When you get a chance, find out what rpm this happens.
And what is the timing advances to at 2500 and 3000.
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I also have vacuum can hooked to full port vacuum (below butterflies).

Likely a source of the problem here.
Should be on ported. Only need or want around 12-16* at idle with a stockish engine. It's probably got 20* something and therefore runs nicer at with a lean mixture. But that lean mix is not providing power. With an automatic it would be more obvious, but its still true. Put it on ported, a little rich mix and it will burn faster and be good.

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Up through 2500-3000 RPM the car felt better, but putting it under load, up hill, and giving it some throttle cause a loss of power and cough up through the carb. Felt like a lean condition to me, so yesterday I had some time to play with the car some, and jetted up from the stock 70s to 73s. I left the secondaries alone (80s). Took the car for a drive and it now has a clean/strong transition under load and the cough is gone.

Good.

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I was thinking of possibly raising it some and going from a 73 back to 72 on primary jets.

Good plan.
The other thing you can experiment with is richening the idle circuit.
One change at time, so try this afterword.
Easy way will be to stick a wire in each idle air bleed. (primary side only) Some magazine writers say this will only effect transition. In my experience that's horsepucky. It will help most in the transition, but it will effect the entire idle. You may have to readjust the mix screws.

You can use one wire or two. In either case, stick it in the airbleed, then bend it over the choke tower and run it under the air cleaner gasket. That way they can't move.
The idle airbleeds will probably be between .073 and .076" diameter. Measure with the shank of a small drill.
Calculate the area. then come up with a wire or pair of wires to reduce bleed about .003" diameter.
In otherwords, if the bleeds are .076" diameter, restrict them to the equivalent of .073 or .074"
I wouldn't take them lower than .070 unless the idle feed restrictions are real small, and I doubt they are.

Last edited by Mattax; 05/06/19 10:28 AM.