Look at the back of your Rallye Dash cluster. There are two threaded studs that the amp gauge is hooked up with. You can locate it by looking where the amp gauge is mounted and locating the two threaded studs that emerge on the back of it.

I bypassed my amp gauge by simply bolting all the positive connections to the input side of the amp gauge stud. I could also have left it wired as the factory did it, as I do not have any high amp loads added to the car.

The main problem with Mopar electrical systems is that the power from the alternator passes through the bulkhead, through the amp gauge and back out the bulkhead to the starter relay and then on to the battery.

That's a lot of amps going through a less than ideal connection at the bulk head. Age, corrosion, water and dirt can easily penetrate the bulk head connectors leading to a build up of resistance = heat at the connectors.

Many nice Mopars went up in flames as a result of this dubious connection.

A quick and easy remedy for this issue is to add a fuse-protected, heavier gauge cable from the alternator directly to the battery under the hood. You can also clean all your bulkhead connectors and seal them up with dielectric grease to keep moisture and dirt out. It's not that easy to do well, as these are small parts with male and female connectors.

There are other methods explained in greater detail on Madd Electrics website.


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)