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I firmly believe in motor plates.. FRONT AND MIDPLATE with a POLY trans mount.. I've been told about rubber trans mounts contributing to cracked trans cases because of it's ability to FLEX... I have a World products wedge block that is somewhat "stronger" than an stock 440 wedge block,, so I am not concerned with twisting or torqueing like some previous posts... I also think there is NO NEED for a 3/8 plate if you are going to run a MIDPLATE.. A 900HP engine with a 3/8 front plate and NOTHING between the engine and trans is a CATASTROPHE waiting to happen.. ESPECIALLY with a rubber trans mount.. There is FIVE FEET or more between the FRONT MOUNT and the TRANS MOUNT !!!! NOT A GOOD IDEA.... A 600Hp engine could get away with a front plate ( Providing it's 6061 T6,or better 3/8 thick or BETTER ) and a poly trans mount,, but,, I wouldn't try it with a stroker motor !!!



I disagree with you... if you dont use a limiter
you are asking a vertical plate to carry the launch
load of about 700 lbs(static) ... take a alum plate and set
it on a pair of blocks that are at the same width
as the outer mount points... now get up on it in
the center and bounce(and I dont think you weigh
anything near the engine and trans weight) you will
see how much it bows or bends.... now sure this will
depend on how hard the car launches on how much it
will move.... also especially if you use a front and
mid plate you want some movement on the trans mount
either with a stock or poly mount... you cant acount
for chassis flex if its a solid mount... remember
the old math class... 2 points are a line but when
the 3rd point is induced its not always a straight
line and now induce chassis flex that 3rd point is
trying to move