I do not claim to be an engine builder of any kind but one thing that I avoid if at all possible is to rely upon sealers of any kind,,,particularly silicone to prevent leaks.

Clean up and tear downs the next time around can dramatically increase the time to do the job. I once spent 5 hours removing the oil pan from my BB engine, that after all bolts were removed and idler arm had been dropped because the guy who built the engine had chosen to slather the pan and windage screen with what appeared to be a whole tube of grey silicone.

Always wondered the wisdom of using same on your beautifully ported and port matched intake manifold, to have it squoshed out into ports when torqued down.

Ma Mopar I believe did not find it necessary.

Also no rope rear main seals. If you ever wish to remove a top half of one that does not want to come out,,,,well you know.

Make certain that new crank you just installed in your engine has a pilot hole if running a std transmission before installing engine.

Checking valve springs for coil bind already mentioned.

Check oil pickup distance from floor of oil pan.

Make certain that oil pan bolts are correct length, not stainless and are torqued to proper 15 pounds. If damages oil pan flange, either get a new oil pan supplier or use a girdle.

Make certain on number 5 rear main if using studs instead of bolts that oil pan itself does not get hung up on the tip of of one of the studs. Do not assume that Milidon and ARP have ever spoken to each other.

Do not assume that rear main retainer pan bolt holes will handle the same length bolts as do the remaining pan bolts that attach to the block itself. Chrysler has a service bulletin put out over 40 years ago on this.