Because of the way my coupe body was rusted away, I basically have a complete Dakota with the 48 Plymouth sheet metal. Think a big model kit, you have a chassis, and you set the body on top of it then you get the picture of what my 48 Plymouth really is. As such, I didn't have to change anything in the Dakota wiring because I used nearly everything in the Dakota.

That said, If you get into the OBDI Dakota wire harness, the engine management wiring is pretty well stand alone. Much of the additional wiring is stuff you will probably be using anyway (lights, turn signals and such), but if you feel you must, you can remove everything you don't want, one circuit at a time, as long as you don't get into the computer controlled stuff.

The Dakota OBDII is slightly more complex, but the Dakota version is still pretty much a stand alone system, (full size truck is a different critter) don't remove anything the computer controls. If the Dakota you are using has an overhead information center, the wiring to it is pretty complex and ties into some of the computer sensors, if your not keeping it, remove the wires carefully.

You will have to deal with the efi fuel pump in an old tank if you don't use the Dakota tank. On my son's 57 Dodge we used a late 80s GMC Jimmy fuel tank and the GM fuel pump and added a return flow fuel pump regulator. The Jimmy tank is about 18 gal and is a bit easier to deal with then a Dakota tank, and the GM stuff, including the additional regulator is less then 1/2 the cost of Dodge stuff. It puts out a little more pressure then the Dodge stuff, hence the reason for the regulator.

On my coupe I removed the carbon canister and its related wiring, relays, switches and vacuum lines. The motor still functions well, but on occasion it will light the "Check Engine" light for the computer not receiving the proper signals from the missing evac system. It doesn't effect engine operation, but the light can be irritating. The system was something I choose not to find room for under the hood.

I also eliminated the ABS system and assorted brake lines and stuff and removed the bulb from the dash just in case.

I did have to disconnect the idle up solenoid because it would up the rpm at start up, but wouldn't return it back down to normal after start up. I tried a different used solenoid but got the same results. I set it to the RPM I wanted and unplugged it. I suspect part of the issue is the lack of the Evac system. Unplugging the solenoid had worked for me for 5 years and around 30,000 miles.

As far as I have read, you have to wire in 2 more injector pigtails when going from the V6 to a V8. Someone on here explained how that was done not long ago. Gene