This is a good read here.

It seems maybe two or so who have posted on this could actually benefit from a race block.

If you look at the big picture of the trickle down effect on the wallet after getting out of a oem block and its power level its almost better for most to find a oem based combo that works.

Many of us take an oem block and want to push it with our eagle cranks, then some think an eagle crank will live in a 800hp plus setting, but nearly every race block ive asked about that needed sleeved many needed more then one and had a cheap off shore crank that was used.

How many have actually bought a race block then sprung for the proper high end crank? Few do.

So then what, is a glide or dana in the budget?

If one is bracket racing is it worth an added 5k in the block or crank area to chase a light?

Im getting ready to build a jinky 318 hydro camed motor for a bracket car
because thats all it needs.

Most who want a better block are day dreaming in the wallet dept, put a new R3 up for sale at cost and add 2.5% for each year of having the money tied up and no one will inquire.

List one at 50% or less of new, like flies on raw meat. Thanks mopar friend.

Currently its a hard choice to build a older car to go fast, for so many years mopar guys had to because the current offerings sucked, now in the big picture a hellcat dont look too bad.

So now im gonna build this jinky 318, ive not touched one since I was in my teens but it should be fun and cheap and cause no worries.

On the hard block, yes it does seem to help the lower bores but as pointed out the temp difference is big but can be worked around. I run a short fill in one unit but dang does that block clink and clank when cooling down.

So even if all oem blocks could take 800hp, how many are willing or could afford to step up on the trans and rear diff front? Or for that matter make the jump to quicker then 10.0 racing with all the fun rules and costs.