Anybody pushing a stock 340 block hard?

How much you putting through yours? im at 690 on motor and spraying on top of that. Block is 60 over, not filled, studs, stock caps. Havent seen any signs of an issue, around 20 hits so far. mostly stock 727 never been in it, but has valve body and deep pan. stock a body 8 3/4 housing, spool and 30 spline

More details PLEASE. That sucker must be flying with 690 PLUS the hit.

sounds similar to yours, indy headed 422. mine prolly weighs a lot more, all steel with glass bumpers

I'm nowhere near those horsepower numbers.

what do you make at the flywheel? Would like to compare combos

Just stop. Both of you. This is not going to end well.

My 25 year old X block with studded 4 bolts caps is unbreakable....I hope.

👍👍

I heard X blocks were not that good? Are they?

Everything behind your motor is a time bomb, get rid of the 30 spline asap, I broke that, now I'm tearing up 35 spline spools until 9" money this winter

40 years of racing and I never dynoed an engine. I'm guessing a hair over 500 give or take a few. I hope to step up to a roller cam over the winter to pick up a few more.

800hp on a early 360 block 2 studs 1/2 fill

Numbers dont lie lets see a et slip that will tell us how much power you are really making

Stock block with a fill...4.100 X 4.00 !!

Pump gas with a 904 and 3.73'S !!

150 shot !!

I don't know, it was in the car when I got it, and it hasn't broke yet. I'm afraid to hit with as much nitrous as I've sprayed on stock 440 blocks though.




Numbers lie...I can just be like everyone else and claim my car is 400 lbs heavier than it really is!!



You're doing it wrong...what 60 foots at what weight? Dead hooking a radial?

Ok, keyboard experts: 3095 lbs. on the scale at Norwalk, made this pass at National Trails, don't have DA or weather data.
What was I making at the tire?
What was I making at the flywheel?
When will the block break?
When will the 904 break?
Where can I find two more tenths?

I ran an X block for years. New owner still uses that block. Been beat on for 10-12 years now, at as fast as 140 mph N/A at 3220 weight.
Great piece. Sturdy.

Looks heavy, Gary.
What's the jetting on your "150 shot"?

Ian would drive around me in the back half...it would still be fun!

lol it would be there was some more left in it with the tune ,i need to get some weight of the car and driver lol car is 3200 full street trim and me 360 lbs ,the block was not to happy at this level not sure maybe the fill expanding rebuilding a new engine with a r block should be good for extra 200 hp

Well some of this is good news for me

I am currently working on my procharged build, 69 block half filled, Hughes stud/stud girdle kit with factory mains, factory forged crank, Eagle H beam rods and Speed Pro forged pistons. I am hoping to make about 700 at the crank under max boost.

What's it weigh? MPH?

When you do see signs of an issue, it won't be subtle.

138 @ 3100 = 620 on my Moroso dream wheel.

Mines a 360 1/2 fill and girdle. ( not 340, but obviously similar.)

1/4 mile 141.97mph
1/8 mile 114.66mph

@3750lbs I'm guessing it's in the 850-900hp range.

BUT turbos are notoriously easy on parts, and I only turn it to 6500rpm at the stripe.

It is heavy and I suspect(never weighed)around 3400-3500 with me as even the glass hood is heavy being bolt on...Stock bumpers and full interior also !!

Nos big shot plate was jetted as recommended and I have since changed over to a NX Gemini twin stage 6 I had laying around and haven't sprayed at the track with it yet !!

My goal is to drive it to the local track & back(around 50 miles one way)and go a 5.999 or better in the 1/8th

Bobs old car very nice Gary

not to change the subject , but Ian what's with the back window i have seen a lot of au vids and wondered whats with the window blinds

Been in the 9`s for years w/stock capped 742 and 30 spline axles in the 1.3 60............Now 35`s and a nodular should last ME forever..........

Billy, I felt like I was doing it right... Back then I was dead hooking radials, weighed about 3400 went 1.34-6 60' a few times then snap. That was the end of 30 spline stuff. I had less power than the OP is claiming. I switched to 35 spline which stayed in the car for my new combo... the axles are stronger than the spool, on Jacks noticed I could roll one tire before the other one would start. This combo is lighter, a lot faster, and depending how aggressive we get it sometimes dead hooks the radial.... would be fun to race the OP, both are NT cars I believe

You ran slicks right? Radials are a much harder shock. On my 28x10.5s nothing ever broke, started tuning radials and wow... parts bills lol

3 most dangerous words? "I have heard."

The X block is better than any stock OEM smallblock. It turned into the R block. If you have one hold onto it.

R.

Yes...First car I ever bought built(About 95% done)in the 40+ years I been doing this gig and have no regrets !!

Yes Bob builds a very nice car thats for sure

I like it. I wish they weren't so much heavier than a duster. My sons 70 duster with a cage, frame connectors, stock window glass, stock bumpers, stock interior except for driverside racing seat, heavy fiberglass six pay good, and 160 pound driver weights in at 3100-3150 pounds. We did take the wiper blades and motor off. Caltracks and Mono leaf. Stock K member and front suspension.

Yea I'd be down try something out, I want to do some traveling before the season is up

We have an instant green, small block NT shootout coming up, 275 tire limit, street cars

it a metal blind ,done for early cars in the 60,s it keeps the sun of the top of your back seat so it does not crack open .and it hides the cage and gives it a little retro/sleeper look and makes the car look cool lol

must be an Australian thing .
had them in holdens and Chrysler Royals I owned. hot and sunny down here - don't want any rednecks
Hey Ian , how are you running at Portland ?

Tex

i have not raced here yet mate ,but have crewed with andrews just a 6 running some great numbers and the track is great here and the whole community gets behind it ,thats the difference mate very family frendly

You must be a hell of a good tuner !!! no detonation?

One more thing these all must t be stroker motors ??? How high are you spinning them ???

common sense stuff ,good fuel ,good piston prep ,plenty of retard .yep is a 410 and seen 8000 rpm a few times ,it still was a time boom for a long lasting combo i would stay around 650

[/quote]
i have not raced here yet mate ,but have crewed with andrews just a 6 running some great numbers and the track is great here and the whole community gets behind it ,thats the difference mate very family frendly
[/quote]
Bewdy , may get there 1 day . That justa6 is out of my league

Tex

Spin mine to 7000

The Venetian blinds in the rear window were a little-old-man thing back in the real early '70s in my part of the USA. If a young person bought a car with them in, they got removed the first hour. Definitely uncool back then.

Same as caps with earflaps that tie under the chin. Back then, no way would a kid be caught wearing something like that. Now they're all over the states,, made in Peru or places like that.

The longer I live, the stranger it gets.....

R.

I'll bite..... where are you going with that?

Going to the Turkey Bash?

Got the number of carbs right, just too many doors! Hopefully it has 3 pedals.

Sorry mate 2 peddles

I doubt it, I like Mexico stuff

It was just a rant.

R.

What's a safe rpm for stock crank, stock pan as in a stocker engine. I will use the limited collapsing lifters and stocker cam. Guy I bought the heads, intake and cam from said on kill he went 8500. I don't want to be knocking the bearings out, comments?

x2

He claims to street race, doubt he's going to share anything. I think he was on fast mopar once talking about a SBM mustang then left. I recognize the name

His first two post in the thread tells most of what his basic combination is. Just not the smaller things

What are you a trouble maker. Lol. You are gonna get hollowed at like I did when I asked that question. I haven't had my 60 year old hands slapped in years but he showed me.

Lol yea I have the twin turbo sbm mustang.

Duster is a 422, eagle crank, scat rods, diamond Pistons, 11.4 comp, custom .7xx comp roller, non cnc Indys hand ported then copied in a cnc, ported 360 intake, 950 carb, 2" headers, 3.5 exhaust, big shot plate

I seriously doubt any SB LA Mopar out there will pull in gear with a hydrauic roller cam and hydraulidc roller lifter and matching valve springs up to or much past 7000 RPM, let alone 8500 in any gear Maybe in nuetral or park
I was told by a older guy, drinking Cutty Sark whiskey straight out of a quart bottle at 1:00 PM in the afternoon at the Colorado river back in 1965, that his N/A 392 Hemi motor in his 21 ft. flat bottom V drive Mandella wood hull would peg his 8500 RPM tach I bet him it wouldn't do that so he offer me a ride in it the next morning when he was sober. It would peg the electric tach at 8500 RPM as soon as he went WOT, but it was showing 4300 RPM crusing at around 35 MPH warming up the motor before he hit it hard He had a Vertex magneto on that motor and he should have had a 4 cyl electric tach for it, not a V8 tach. It was reading twice as much RPM when the motor was running, not the true cranksaft RPM it should have been reading. Most of the other, better, high end boats back then had Jones Motorola mechanical tachs driven off of the top of the V drives so they measured the true crankshaft revolutions, not the propeller revolutions.
My message is it is easy to be mislead on many things, especaiily automotive racing parts and storys
On your deal I would shift it when the motor quits pulling hard in second gear, don't look at the tach before shifting, listen and feel the motor quit pulling first and then look at the tach to see where it quit pulling hard Shift it 200 to 300 RPM before it quits pulling hard Don't over revved it

I'll ask him again next time we talk, might have heard him wrong, he was world champion with a Duster out of Balt. about 10 years back. Funny you mention it, I've never watched a tach, except to launch.

What happened here, this was just getting good?

I ran a stock re ring 360 long block with a 509 hydro cam in high school but it was still super slow 13.6 and it would spin to 7k. But broke a rod that same summer but I do think the tach was correct.

I dont think a stock based 340 would ever hit 8500 even one time in nut.

Just checked the rpm calculator and it had to be 7500 (I am hard of hearing) or even 6500. I feel better knowing I don't have to turn it that high, never ran a small block before. Will be a learning experience for sure.

don't post much anymore, but

Not many guys are pushing the stock block. Too many say it won't take anything past 600hp.
That may be the case but we ran stock block over 10 years and several of those years we leaned on the nitrous pretty hard pushing car 138-40 in 1/8th. We are retiring it now and building a r3 with w9rp's for the duster. I will however be putting a new set of Pistons in it and have it fresh just in case the new build has any problems.

thats getting after it

What heads and compression with that mph?

My half filled, non studded, 360 base 4" stroke motor with 360-2 CNCS is currently running a .63 jet through a cheater on pump gas. Would loveeee to build an r3 for it or one of the G3 hemi's I have sitting on the garage floor, but im tight on cash and want to throw a much bigger hit at the stock block...Hoping it will hold, but I need to build a 727 or glide first and get a proper converter, my 904 has a vert that is total crap

All I have to say is LOL at the "600hp" limit.

YOU'RE BACK!!! You just missed my SBM vs LSX thread

Just curious reading this thread what did Glidden use back in the day for a block with his Arrow?
Gus

This...Nothing Like A Stock Block.

Brian Keck W-5's about 11:1 single stage steve Johnson prepped wilson plate.

Well all I can say is my car is heavy all steal all glass stock suspension small tire stock block and it's a bad Mother and no Trans brake I claim to have the baddest stock around 😏 But I also have one of the baddest engine builders around. Extreme race engines out of NY

600 lol u need a lot more than 600 to push my car down that 1/4.

Just curious what year your block is? I always hear mixed things about which blocks are stronger between earlier and later year blocks

. 1970 block

Nice steel hood bro

U KNOW WHAT I MEAN

No... my all steel car has a metal hood and everything else lol

EXCUSE ME LOL

Just wondering, what improvements have you guys ACTUALLY seen from half fill, meaning you guys pushing big power, have you seen 340 blocks before and after half fills with noticeably less block distortion?

The reason why I ask is because my engine is almost finished and my machinist was trying to talk me out of the hardback the other day. I know that he knows his stuff, but he is a huge Windsor guy with a whole bunch of NHRA records but not really a hard core mopar guy. He was telling me that with the meat on the 69 340 block I have, he thought I'd be OK at the power levels I was looking to hit (650- 700fwhp max with the procharger) without using the block fill. He didn't think it would be helping to much with bore distortion and he said that with the .030 overbore the block was still pretty strong. I told him I still wanted to go ahead with it just for the peace of mind if nothing else.

I know guys here have seen the before and after effects of filling the block though, do you guys think on a stronger LA block like a 60's 340 that it would be helpful to do for a big power/lower RPM boosted setup?

Currently I have main studs, hughes girdle, factory main caps, Eagle H beam rods and a factory forged crank.

Filling a block does not strengthen the weak areas. ALL it does is help with bore distortion when you get the bores bigger than they really need to be, given the thickness of surrounding metal.

Now, not being a small block expert, I really don't know what is considered the weak area of a stock block. Is it weak in the mains, are the bores thin, is it the caps? Someone who knows more than me would have to answer that. Whatever is perceived as the weak area needs to be where your focus is. Pouring it just to pour it won't help if cylinders are not thin

Listen to your machinist I use to help Gene Buhl, NHRA E/SA record holder and C/SA record holder , once he went to non filled early(pre 1971) blocks the motors set records I built several NHRA stock legal 340 motors for Steve and Linda Myers in the 1990s, one motor they had a new motor with a R1 block, their old motor was built originaly with the block 3/4 filled, the new block wasn't. Both blocks where bored to 4.080 and the unfilled block made 10 HP more on the DTS engine dyno at the same RPMs than the filled block did with the same cam degreed the same, intake and carb. on both
I did discover that the filled block would have two different temp. zones in it, above the cement would read 120 to 140F when warmed up to what they normally had before a run and the block, after several pulls on the dyno, would read 180+ F at the filled line and below with a infra red temp. gun

Hey John, Could you tell what's weight of your Duster?

2750-2800 right now. Used to be under 2600 when my Son was driving. He a skinny son of a gun but I also added steel doors, alternator, racepak and all the needed sensors, and a few other things to make it more race Friendly. Its my old-man car.

You should consider a Hellcat...

PURE COMEDY!!!


I wish mine was 2800lbs

Aint nothing but a thing to MAKE it 2800 or less..........LOL!!!

I'm pricing out a stock one with a polished blower and nitrous tonight trouble maker. Lol. Don't get these guys roughed up again Ted

I wish it was that easy, as it sits with 5 gallons of fuel and a full 10lb bottlet and me I'm 3320. Narrower rear end should lose some weight. Thinking about a glass hood and bumpers but idk

If I had a different Challenger I would like a Scat Pack. Take it easy,Slow Ride!!

This is a good read here.

It seems maybe two or so who have posted on this could actually benefit from a race block.

If you look at the big picture of the trickle down effect on the wallet after getting out of a oem block and its power level its almost better for most to find a oem based combo that works.

Many of us take an oem block and want to push it with our eagle cranks, then some think an eagle crank will live in a 800hp plus setting, but nearly every race block ive asked about that needed sleeved many needed more then one and had a cheap off shore crank that was used.

How many have actually bought a race block then sprung for the proper high end crank? Few do.

So then what, is a glide or dana in the budget?

If one is bracket racing is it worth an added 5k in the block or crank area to chase a light?

Im getting ready to build a jinky 318 hydro camed motor for a bracket car
because thats all it needs.

Most who want a better block are day dreaming in the wallet dept, put a new R3 up for sale at cost and add 2.5% for each year of having the money tied up and no one will inquire.

List one at 50% or less of new, like flies on raw meat. Thanks mopar friend.

Currently its a hard choice to build a older car to go fast, for so many years mopar guys had to because the current offerings sucked, now in the big picture a hellcat dont look too bad.

So now im gonna build this jinky 318, ive not touched one since I was in my teens but it should be fun and cheap and cause no worries.

On the hard block, yes it does seem to help the lower bores but as pointed out the temp difference is big but can be worked around. I run a short fill in one unit but dang does that block clink and clank when cooling down.

So even if all oem blocks could take 800hp, how many are willing or could afford to step up on the trans and rear diff front? Or for that matter make the jump to quicker then 10.0 racing with all the fun rules and costs.

Old car with new hemi... problem solved

I haven't raced a car that FAT since I made a pass in my 1972 Cutlass Supreme back in the early 80's

The thing is...it IS just that easy. I didn't say free or even cheap, but it IS easy. I am not picking on you here, but seriously, how do you even MAKE a small block A-body that is supposed to be a race car THAT heavy.

I have mentioned this several times, but my GTX, with an iron Mega-block with alum heads, me and two nitrous bottles was 3200 ready to race and I had to add some ballast to get there. No gutted race car either. All factory floor pans with steel tubs and full factory rails. 12 point cage. Ladder bar coilover rear, coilovers on the front with a rack. All steel except for hood, chrome bumpers, all factory glass and even had a back seat. I was likely 180 when I last raced that car, so that means the car was basically 3000 ready to race with a bit of ballast. So the weights that guys say their cars are simply blows my mind. Not sure how you even make something that is supposed to be a race car as heavy as some claim

I take no offense Monte. Honestly it's an all steel car, still full interior with heavy stock parts. It's a 74 with crash bars in the door, I never intended for it to be a race car or even this fast.... and I'm 6'2 260+ so that's not too helpful. The R3 is heavy too, car is actually right around factory 74 weight lol. Idk, probably build another car, not willing to gut out my 1st car

What's a R3 ?

HOW did I miss this ?

LMAO

R3 block... SBM stuff Tony, leave us slow kids alone lmao

Thought you had a stock block....lol

I do, has a chrysler part number. Ask anyone I got a race off with this year

hold on here no stock block hmmm i have a factory passenger block no r3 now u know u got to spot me out

if my car was 2800 race ready with me in it oh boy people would hang them selves lol

Haven't weighed mine, I hope it's not 3300 with me in it. I bent the crap out of my 8 3/4 housing, twisted axles, and cracked pinion gear

wow really

I have done that too, now it's braced every way I could and tied pumpkin to spring perch with tubes

put a pic would like to see if u dont mind

Think I still have your number. I'LL text you a pic when I'm in the shop next

kool thanks

I've run my 340s very hard (past ~40 years) during Autocross and hi-speed road course lapping events... 4000-6000-6500-occasional 7000 rpms... for common 30-60-120 seconds of AX/HSAX lap times... road course lapping sessions for ~15-20-30 minutes... engine survives with modified baffles oil pan, diferent past cams from stock hyd to ~484 hyd ..... runs great! Planning a new SB possibly with Eddy alumin heads, maybe a stroker.

Hey all, FWIW I decided not to go with the half fill as per my machinist's (and most of every here) recommendation. I called up the fine gentlemen at Hughes who I take it have come across many big power LA builds. Their tech told me he didn't think the half fill would be necessary if I were shooting for around 700fwhp with boost. He told me, as I already knew, that the biggest killer of these engines with high hp/relatively low rpm boosted motors is detonation. I am hoping that with the combination of a front mounted intercooler, E85 and wideband tuned fuel injection that I should have an easier time tuning to keep out of detonation than some other setups.


I should be getting the motor back in the next few days. Still have a lot of work to do but hopefully I'll have this thing running before winter.

Seem to be holding up? I have another housing to use, but mine smashed both axle tubes about flat and started ripping the perches off. I was considering getting a housing jig and doing some serious bracing.

[s][/s] u on a trans brake

How fast are these cars or is that top secrete. Lol

foot brake, I leave on the kit when I spray it tho

top secret lmao

oh ok me to foot brake

Yeah, it's been like this for a couple years, has never shown any signs of damage since. I use a trans brake and an okay nitrous shot. 60fts good

I will not share that. My car runs okay and surprises most

I fix that statement for you

Update. Got my new housing, went with a moser 8.75. Scored a 35 spline setup at a swap meet. Got a set of billet caps/adjusters for the stock center from mark Williams also. They are back ordered so it's gonna be a month or so before I see them

Also did some work up front. Went with a qa1 setup and cut off all the stuff off I didn't need. I think it was around 40lbs before. The kmember is 22lbs now

I never seen this post until now.. I was up at
my other place hunting.. I turned all my SB to
8200 rpm.. the 395ci was ported W-2s.. my 405ci
was W-9s.. the 416 I have now with W-2s I only
turn it to 7300 rpm since I changed to the smaller
cam

Mr p's car doesn't weigh anything so that is a big factor in hurting anything. 2200-2300 pounds.

I ran 10.30's with a stock 340 block at 3450 pounds. Block had no issues. Cast stroker crank finally gave up the ghost. Arp studded, otherwise stock 30 over block 426 combo.
I think a good 340 block is fine to tickle high 9's with at typical A body weight.
Any more than that your pushing your luck

The guy in Baltimore is Mark Dickerson he ran a super quick Duster no reason not to believe what he told you. Gene Buell in his TA stocker routinely went 7800 on kill. My 72 340 4sp stocker would hit 8000 on kill. Buell and I both ran stock blocks no fill. With the new lifter rules and roller rockers it just got easier to run the RPM.
A body stocker stock front seats cage and a Dana 3165 pounds race weight with my 210 in it and a 50 pound weight bar.

Bump the post back from the dead

Best track pass was 1.27 5.75@119 with a .73 jet. I worked my way up to a .103 jet 16 degrees of timing on c16. Still running the stock block, tore it down today and had zero cap walk. Street drove this thing everywhere, there’s still hope for stock blocks. For a recap mine is a .60 over 73 340 block with Indy w2’s

Good Lord... thats flying!! are you running stock caps or pro-gram?

Stock caps with arp studs

@ Redrum...

Any oiling mods to the block?

Back in the early 80's I had a 340 4 speed 69 Dart with W2's and 4.30 gears and that was a nice little Street Sweeper....I would routinely hit 7600-7800 with it and I'm sure she saw north of 8 more than a few times. Ran great and big blocks ran the other way from it. Never tore it down but when I sold it 3 guys were fighting over it...miss that car a bunch.

My Rocky has a 70 model 340 block and I twist it about 7200