If you do the amp bypass, run a large wire directly from alternator to battery relay, you won't have to worry about the stock wiring carrying the load.
Battery relay?
You realize that all electrical loads are, by design, supported by the alternator when the engine is running. All your "trick" does is feed the battery direct, everything else still pulls off the stock wiring and now you've severely increased the load on the wiring from the battery to the fuse box. Prior to your "trick" that load came from the alternator output to the fuse box. This is a poorly thought out "cure" for a problem that shouldn't exist.
If he leaves the factory wiring hooked up and just runs another wire from the alt output to the battery the alt will still feed everything in the car like stock which is through the bulkhead to the ign switch side of the ammeter which feeds everything in the car. But now the battery is not getting charged back through the bulkhead and through ammeter and then the bulkhead again out to the starter relay and fuselink and back to the battery.
He would also render the amp gauge from working right.
Course if he eliminated the stock alt output and only ran a wire to the battery then the output current would go to the battery and then go from the battery back through the stock wiring to the starter relay and then through the fuselink and bulkhead through the ammeter in the wrong direction and feed everything in the car.
Myself I would clean the bulkhead connectors or eliminate the alt and hot feed bulkhead connectors and leave the stock wiring in place and maybe upgrade any wiring that might need it and also run another alt output right to the battery. And then put a voltmeter in the car to moniter the charging system. That way the battery will charge through the one new wire you put in and the alt will also supply the car through the stock alt output wiring which would be through the bulkhead to the hot feed on the ign switch side of the ammeter which feeds everything in the car. Ron
