Hey Radar,
Sounds like a good deal. I'll put my suggestions in-line. I've certainly had my share of attempting to maximize dyno time.
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I'm thinking I will get on the rollers and warm up, then ballpark the four corner idle on the wideband.

I would do this, best you can, beforehand. Work with a vac gage/MAP and best in gear with least rpm drop (assuming 727 trans). If there's time at the end of the session, check and tweak but save that shop time for the dyno.

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Next will be trying to simulate a low throttle 35mph cruise on the T-slots. If it is close I will try idle air bleeds to sharpen it up, if not then work with the IFRs first. Once that's done the idle corners and curb idle rpm can get finalized.


Study up on what a Mustang Dyno can do. What I've seen with eddy currents is that you can apply constant load, apply a stepwise load, or tell it to hold a constant speed. I'm just not sure the holding a slow speed can be done with all - do check beforehand. The problems I've had with the idle circuit too lean have been when adding gentle throttle, like when going up hill, not steady state. Again my suggestion is to do what you can in a parking lot or on the street. My recollection is that you have an Innovate WBO2 logger?

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Next on to the primaries- I'm not sure if I'll try and put slack in the throttle to just open the front 1/2 of the carb? I know a 60mph cruise is solidly into the primaries. Anyway, my PVCRs are not currently adjustable so I figure I should see how much richer the power valve gets it then jet for a compromize between best power with PV open and leanest clean cruise with the PV closed.


NO SLACK. Set the throttle cable up so you are sure that when you put your foot down, the throttle blades are fully open. You'll feel stupid if you do WOT and later realize the carb wasn't at WOT...don't ask me how I know...
Different approaches here, which may be dictated by the dyno and instrumentation available. Personally I like to start with the WOT runs. In part because steady state at 60 and even 70 mph can always be checked on the highway.
My suggestion: Run the secondaries disconnected. Then look at the AFR and see how flat it is. From that decide if the MAB may need adjusting. If so, make another run or two after trying adjustment. Then adjust primary jets if needed. Run again. Remember fuel distribution won't be quite the same as when running with secondaries. Keep it a little on the fat side.
Next, reconnect the secondaries and do the same as above except on the secondaries.

All that done, go back and see how lean (primary main jets) the car will run at 60 and 70 mph. If you're doing this on the dyno, put a little load on it to simulatte wind resistance and hills. If the the car will run without surging at 70 mph using leaner main jets than WOT, then you can think about the PVCR. In the meantime, the safe thing to do will be run the best jetting for WOT.

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My acc. pumps have smallish nozzles and pink? cams in them from my last 408 combo- the old airgap certainly needed less fuel so I'll probably have to go bigger. I have a complete set of jets and air bleeds and pump cams but only a handful of random squirters. Is this even something worth messing with on the dyno? Seems like I might be better off doing the pump shot last- I always did it seat of the pants until there was no hesitation.



I don't think you can do serious pump shot tuning on a dyno. They always want you to roll into the throttle. Your old method is still a good method.

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I am planning on leaning on the experience of others with the timing. I'm thinking my current setup should be safe on high test pump gas. I am planning to try going to 36° total to see if I get more power. Does it make sense to take for granted that 34° is close enough to do the AFR tuning first, then try a little distributor twisting? It's 10.2:1 CR with basically stock edelbrock chambers and .040" quench.



If you have time to do this, I'd go the other way to start just to be safe. In other words, run it at 34*, then try 32* and see if you lose anything. Then decide if it makes sense to try more timing.