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I am not trying to make this an autocross car by any means, just upgrade the ride.


Fair enough. All the following comments will be with this in mind.

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A few problems I see are stock small block 40 year old torsion bars and sway bar coupled with new super stock springs in the rear.


Torsion Bars, Part 1:
Age alone is not an issue for any spring. It is the number of cycles its been subject too and/or if it has exceeded the design load. The nice thing about t-bars is you can get the hieght back by cranking in the adjusters a little. That said, normally t-bars are something to consider, so heres a few things to keep in mind.
A body bars are shorter than B/E bars. As a result an .92" diameter B/E will have less spring rate and roll resistance than the same diameter for an A.
Spring force goes up very quickly when stepping up from the stock diameters.

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with a 325/50/15 rear tire and stock size front tire.


Tires:
This is one of the most important limiting factors. Front to rear Weight, roll centers, pavement type are all up there, but the buck stops here. Stock was what? An F70D15 Goodyear crossply? My guess is that's not quite what you meant But maybe a 225 70 R15 BFG Radial TA ? On dry pavement, a front tire more closely matched to the rears with wider contact patch would be the best starting point. The decision on tires should come before the decision t-bars.

Torsion Bars Part 2:
With the front tires you currently have, I would go to the largest factory sizes, probably around .92" diameter, but not into the 1.0" bars. The stiffer the front bars, the more the front of the car will understeer. Front heavy, big rear tires, the car is already well on the understeering side of neutral - at least on dry pavement.

If you go to a more matched set of tires, and have some serious stick and bite in the front, then sure a 990 on up bar could be helpful.

Sway Bar:
Agreement here. If you want to reduce the roll a bit, then polyurethane the bushings and links and consider one of the aftermarket bars. In fact you might even consider a soft rear bar - did the factory offer anything for these cars? That would be worthy of consideration by increasing the roll stiffness but not increasing the front push. A step by step approach would be poly the stock front bar. Then add factory rear bar. If the back feels loose in any way on the highway wet, go to bigger front bar.

Shocks:
Can be a help if they really are good. If you plan to drag race, maybe look at Speedway or local shop than can hook you up with shocks that can be adjusted to something like a 90/10 and then back to 50/50 for street use. I've seen 'em but never dug into fit and availability for one of our cars.


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Will the super stock springs hurt me? They are in the upper hole allowing the car to sit as low as it can with them.


I don't think they'll hurt. Beckman runs them on the rallycuda (of course it carries 30 gallons of fuel) and E-berg ran dearched ones on the brick. They are not crazy stiff like some circle track springs - IIRC all the ones sold by MP are 160 #/in. Stock OEM was often 110 with a few applications as high as 130#/in.

Only suggestion I have is that if you drive with the pinion snubber preloaded, that's great for dragstrip launches, but if you can get away without the preload on the street, it will be bit better for handling.

edit
PS. I agree with Steve's suggestion on front alignment. Set the ride hight at the lower end of Chrysler's factory recommendations. Then camber to the most negative the factory recommendation, and then 2 to 3 degrees positve caster if you can. Finish with just a little toe in so it doesn't follow every rut on the highway (which is what happens if it goes a bit toe out).