Quote:

No the top pic that says "Correct pinion angle" is correct. You want the trans and pinion centerline level at the same angle but paralell each other like the top pic as they should not be the same line. Once you get both the trans and pinion at a level 0 degree angle then you nose the pinion down the amount of downward pinion algle you want (2 to 7) so that way when you hit the gas and the diff wraps upward you will have both lines basically about paralell to each other as in the top pic that says Correct pinion angle. They build the cars with the rear lower then the trans and you need some angle in the driveshaft to make the U-joints work and stay lubed. If the shaft was dead straight the U-joints would not work and they would not keep lubing. Ron



This is the issue I'm having cause with my current readings, the trans is inline with the drive shaft, like this....





Taking the drive shaft out of the equation and just concentrating on getting the trans an pinion parallel using pinion shims, this is what my setup would look like...






Sorry for the crude diagrams.....I really suck at photoshop

When I had SS springs with the ass end jacked up to the sky and the front end in the weeds, the axle was lower than the trans and I was able to adjust pinon angle as you say...




But now that I have OEM leafs with the front end cranked up, it appears that the axle is now located higher, so the only way I can adjust the pinon to be parallel with the trans would be with the pinion center line above the trans




That's pretty much where I am at this point and still a bit confused