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Yeah it goes against the Mopar chassis book I know. If your tailshaft is pointing down,they almost always are, in order to make the pinion parallel it will need to be nose up when loaded. When you set it how a driveshaft is supposed to be set with opposing angles at each end it almost always will not look like the diagram in the chassis book unless you're running SS springs. Like Cass said its all about the pinion in relation to the transmission not the pinion in relation to the driveshaft. My car is low and the driveshaft angles upward out of the trans although it still angles down in relation to the ground and my pinion angle is .8 degree nose UP at rest and should be about 3 degrees nose up under load which would put it parallel with the trans. ..... http://www.rosslertrans.com/Pinion%20Angle.htm

I completely disagree with the Rossler charts, Mopar engineers, more than one engineer ) spent countless hours researching and developing the results printed about setting the Moapr drag racing chassis up WITH leaf springs back in the day, 1962 to 1973 or so A standard Mopar A,B, E body will work very well set up using the Mopar bible on a leaf spring car, a ladder bar or four link leaf spring car with a floater or slider will work very well with 1 to 2 degrees nose down in relation to the dirve shaft, the pinion angle is not dependent on nor should it be set up off of or on the trans angle, especailly on a drag car that is set up for a lot of upward front and rear suspension travel A tube chassis car is a completely different animal than a standard Unibody Mopar car All U joints need a difference in angle to operate, it doesn't matter if it is up, down or sideways, it needs the angle to make the needle bearings rotate around the shafts and inside the bearing cups instead of sitting still flattening them out like they would if the pinion shaft and driveshafts where perfectly aligned all the time BTW, one of the first ladder bar cars I drove had negative pinion angle, probally right at 2 degrees nose up in relation to the drive shaft angle, I reset it so it had two degrees nose down in relation to the drive shaft, which was on a up angle to the trans, the trans was higher in the chassis than the pinion shaft was in relation to the ground. The stupid car ran exactly the same 60 ft. times and all the rest of the way down the track where same, my mind felt better though It never had a driveshaft or U joint issue after that



I'm with you Cab... the rear end is constantly moving
so how can the 2 U-joints be equal at all times..
granted when I build a chassis I line the centerline
of the engine/trans up with the centerline of the pinion
with it at zero to the driveline then I roll the pinion
down X dergees for the style of rear suspension....
I hate to get involved in this question... there are
the 2 theories to it and no one agrees with the other