I'd like to try to help. I've been doing this on race cars & Coca Cola vehicles since the early 70's. Remember when GM spent a fortune trying to get their starters to spin after 'hot soak'?
First- Run a battery cable from battery positive to one side of the solenoid. Also attach a #10 wire to that same terminal & run it into the cabin for all you power needs. (Add one or two more wires if necessary for power.) On a stock wiring harness, these wires were attached to the starter big post. Why, I never figured out.
Second- Run a battery cable down to your starter, the big post. Put a good bridge from the starter big post to the starter small post. No other wires should be hooked to the starter but the battery cable.
Third- Inside the cabin, run a small wire from a battery positive wire from a good source under your dash to your starter switch, hopefully a button. Run the same size wire thru your neutral safety switch & back out to your Ford solenoid, small post. You can easily tell which post by simply touching a wire from battery positive (the big post) to one of the small posts. If the solenoid 'makes' (a loud click), attach your small wire there. The other post is not used. It was for shooting a full 12 or 13 volts to the ignition coil on points type ignitions, bypassing the coil resistor, for a hotter spark while starting. Once running & the starter button switch released, the voltage went thru the resistor to the coil, preventing burning up the points.
Using the Ford solenoid gets all wiring out from under the motor where burnt wires & shorts can occur. Also, you now have a great place to connect your timing light & your remote starter button for bumping the motor a degree at a time.
Hope this helps. If you want more details, pm me.