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sure, i'd be happy to do it. no charge whatsoever, i'll even pay the return shipping.

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We don't cut them in half,just mill enough of the sides so that it drops between the heads.Just run it on a mill or belt sander till it drops in. We also use the one with the removable center for roller cams,don't have to break the seal at the heads to check the lifters.

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BG, do you have provisions to cut one on a 45?
how would you get the silicone to stay when you slide it in, doing it your way.

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do you have provisions to cut one on a 45?

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Some table bandsaws have the abilitly to tilt the table 45 degrees, just set up a straightedge to guide the plate.

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We don't cut them in half,just mill enough of the sides so that it drops between the heads.Just run it on a mill or belt sander till it drops in. We also use the one with the removable center for roller cams,don't have to break the seal at the heads to check the lifters.

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BG, do you have provisions to cut one on a 45?
how would you get the silicone to stay when you slide it in, doing it your way.

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We can machine anything But the best solution is like I mentioned,mill or sand the sides.You are only taking the narrow part of the champher off the distance at the top that meets the head stays the same and the bead of silicone fills the gap as usual,just make sure you get plenty at the 4 corners,we do tons of them this way.So easy a caveman can do it or even a "Fish Peddler"

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We don't cut them in half,just mill enough of the sides so that it drops between the heads.Just run it on a mill or belt sander till it drops in. We also use the one with the removable center for roller cams,don't have to break the seal at the heads to check the lifters.

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BG, do you have provisions to cut one on a 45?
how would you get the silicone to stay when you slide it in, doing it your way.

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We can machine anything But the best solution is like I mentioned,mill or sand the sides.You are only taking the narrow part of the champher off the distance at the top that meets the head stays the same and the bead of silicone fills the gap as usual,just make sure you get plenty at the 4 corners,we do tons of them this way.So easy a caveman can do it or even a "Fish Peddler"

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id really like the 45 degree cut.
can you cut me one and bring it to Beavr Springs,its for the hemi and with my carb linkage kit from indy please. thanks

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We don't cut them in half,just mill enough of the sides so that it drops between the heads.Just run it on a mill or belt sander till it drops in. We also use the one with the removable center for roller cams,don't have to break the seal at the heads to check the lifters.

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BG, do you have provisions to cut one on a 45?
how would you get the silicone to stay when you slide it in, doing it your way.

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We can machine anything But the best solution is like I mentioned,mill or sand the sides.You are only taking the narrow part of the champher off the distance at the top that meets the head stays the same and the bead of silicone fills the gap as usual,just make sure you get plenty at the 4 corners,we do tons of them this way.So easy a caveman can do it or even a "Fish Peddler"

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id really like the 45 degree cut.
can you cut me one and bring it to Beavr Springs,its for the hemi and with my carb linkage kit from indy please. thanks

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I could but it doesn't make good sence to me.Cutting it down the middle just add another seam to have leaks and now everytime you want to go into the lifter valley you have to cut 3 longitudnal beads of silicone and the two rails to unglue.Doing it the way I suggest you never have to break the seal and less silicone beads to deal with.Using the removable gasketed center for access to the lifters and still have the ability to remove the entire plate without removing the heads.

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We don't cut them in half,just mill enough of the sides so that it drops between the heads.Just run it on a mill or belt sander till it drops in. We also use the one with the removable center for roller cams,don't have to break the seal at the heads to check the lifters.

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BG, do you have provisions to cut one on a 45?
how would you get the silicone to stay when you slide it in, doing it your way.

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We can machine anything But the best solution is like I mentioned,mill or sand the sides.You are only taking the narrow part of the champher off the distance at the top that meets the head stays the same and the bead of silicone fills the gap as usual,just make sure you get plenty at the 4 corners,we do tons of them this way.So easy a caveman can do it or even a "Fish Peddler"

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...............................I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

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Step up to the good stuff!

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That'a a cool piece , do you sell them, how much?

Joey

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I cant see why you want one cut when you can buy one from Andy or Indy.I have the Indy one and it works great, no leaks.

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If it starts leaking what are you gonna do, pull the heads? If you mill the sides like BG said then that would be ok, but it seems like it would need a huge amount of RTV doing it that way.

Mine is not setup for checking the lifters though, I never thought of that.

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Sounds like you need a price list from AR Engineering? That way you'll have the good stuff for the special customers.

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We have used some of you stuff that we have gotten from other vendors and like the quality of your work.We would be interested in being a WD if you offer such a program.

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I cant see why you want one cut when you can buy one from Andy or Indy.I have the Indy one and it works great, no leaks.

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If it starts leaking what are you gonna do, pull the heads? If you mill the sides like BG said then that would be ok, but it seems like it would need a huge amount of RTV doing it that way.

Mine is not setup for checking the lifters though, I never thought of that.

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Milling the lower edge of the champher does not increase the gap at the top that meets the head,use the same bead of silicone and just add an extra dab at the 4 corners.We do this to all Indy covers,even the two piece with o problems or leaks.

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Milling the lower edge of the champher does not increase the gap at the top that meets the head,use the same bead of silicone and just add an extra dab at the 4 corners.We do this to all Indy covers,even the two piece with o problems or leaks.

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Milling the lower edge of the champher does not increase the gap at the top that meets the head,use the same bead of silicone and just add an extra dab at the 4 corners.We do this to all Indy covers,even the two piece with o problems or leaks.

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Bob, does this pic help explain your method? i.e. cut at the vertical black line.

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An can be done very cheaply.

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You can get those billet valley plates from Mancini Racing, Hughes Engines, etc. Part number is AR182. They come with a gasket but they are also machined for an o-ring if you want to go that way. RB only though. There isn't a version for the B motor.

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And Hemi's

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Is there anything "wrong" with the INDY version with the removable center? I just ordered one for my new 448 this morning.... Seems like everyone is trying to run something different for some reason? This BB crap is all new to me...

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Ryan, nothing wrong at all. The removeable center is nice, but we milled the edges on mine just incase the whole thing needed removed. As luck would have it I had an issue that required me to remove the whole cover because the opening wasn't enough for what I needed to do. Using BG's method made it easy to pull the whole cover up out.

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Why not just sell the Indy piece and buy a Bulldog one from Muscle Motors? I think they have all the old stock of them.

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Did you ask Mike if he had the old Bulldog ones in stock? I too heard Bulldog was done, but was told that he bought up all of the valley plate inventory. Perhaps I was misinformed or he sold them all.

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BILL, muscle motors said all stock is gone, Bulldog had a great product there. mike seems to feel Bulldog is a little bit of a flake and cant get his priorities in order. its a shame, he had a nice product there, mike said he sold a ton of them and there is a market so hes going to pick up the slack on them.

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/mike seems to feel Bulldog is a little bit of a flake and cant get his priorities in order....... Putting words in someones mouth even if Mike did say that if he wanted the whole internet to read it he might have posted that himself.

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thanks Randy, your right, i appreciate the reply.
you are absolutely correct.

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its a great way to install them with the correct meat on the sides as original and not trimming them on the sides ,instead of gobbs and gobbs of silicone to fill in the large gaps.

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