Well which cheapos? I need to verify alternator charging and trace current draws on the 12v scale.

I have a Simpson 260 that is older than all your Flukes. Analog to be sure. But all voltages, resistances and current measurements are analog anyway with no +/- 1 of the last digit error of all digital meters. It is also easier to tune for maximum with a analog meter.
I have 7 of the meters Harbor Freight gives away. Disposable but can be in the back of all my vehicles with four spares. I blew up a very expensive Beckman digital meter when I arced over a high voltage circuit years ago. I gave up a lab grade meters for daily use. I know where to borrow one if I need it.
Craig



I also have the Simson 260 thats like new and its pretty old as my dad gave it to me and its a great meter. But I also have a Fluke as its about the best digital meter you can buy. The problem with the Simson 260 is it dont have the right impedance to work on the newer computer systems on cars as thats why I bought my basic Fluke back in the late 80's. On modern cars computer system the digital Fluke is the best meter to use. Ron

I used to have to calibrate meters in my sailor days. The Simpson was always out of cal when I got them, once a year cals on meters. You look funny at a Simpson it went out of cal.


Flukes were never out of cal, unless they were broken.

I have a Fluke 77 I got in the late 80's, still use it. I use a ton of Fluke meters in my current job and they are very good, not cheap though.

For Fluke repairs and calibrations http://en-us.fluke.com/support/repair/

I got my Fluke multimeter for around $40 on ebay.

For measuring amperage one needs a clamp-on ammeter or similar attachment to be read on the multimeter.

I inherited a nearly new Simpson 260. It's too pretty to actually use except on a bench.

If buying a used Fluke, look for one with the analog bar graph thing. There are applications where a digital meter just gives you continuously flashing numbers, like checking a turn signal circuit, that an analog display makes quite simple.

R.

Depends on the amperage load you are trying to measure. For lower figures a meter can do it.. my Fluke can measure up to a 10 amp load. (Not enough for large stuff of course but fine for looking at smaller draws)

(I have an old snap-on battery/load tester with an induction clamp if I ever want to check like a starter, etc on a vehicle)

I used Fluke meters at my old job supplied by my X employer. Then when I needed one I couldn't afford Fluke.

I wore out a radio shack DVM after like 15 years of use at work on heavy trucks before this one.

Then bought one of these, I think from radio shack? It says "Extech" on it. I use it for general purpose use, it does the job for me.

The first one worked so good and was cheap that I bought a second one for the house and I left the first one at work. I have had them over 10 years now I'm sure and use them pretty often especially at work. Both have held up well and I may be wrong but I thought they only cost 39 bucks, maybe it was 59? I can't remember other than they were cheap and have turned into good values with time.

I started working for a guy starting in 1977 and he used a analog meter and he showed me how to use it. Then I remember the big day at work when my boss bought the first digital meter, it was Fluke. lol thinking about it today.

Heres why I am asking. Hard to beleive this item was sent to production!

(Be sure to scroll down to the comment)

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-AUT500-Auto...tive+multimeter

I have a Fluke but I use a harbor freight. You can get them on sale for $2.99.

Yes, the Simpson 260 is a classic for analog based Mopars. Still works like a champ.





Here's Barry "polarizing" with his Simpson! No batteries required!



Jim

I have a mid 90s Fluke and it doesn't work. I don't know why but maybe the fuse is bad.

I also have a cheap (Brand that I can't recall) that is over 10 years old and works.

My Fluke has 2 fuses in it. One for the amps and when that fuse goes everything works other then the amp reading. I use my 10 amp scale in series with the battery cable all the time when checking for milli-amp draws with the key off. Just dont turn a big load on when checking for a draw with the 10 amp circuit of the Fluke meter hooked in series. Works great when checking for key off draws and if someone forgets its hooked up and turns on more then the 10 amp load it will blow the protection fuse in the meter. Ron

That fuse is almost $17, I have blown a few during troubleshooting....Tim

This is more than adequate....Tim
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-117-Electric...words=fluke+119

Digital meter ??? FLUKE,

Analog meter , Simpson or the equivalent,

They both have their place and needs. They are both beyond reproach

If that's all you need it for something like this would do:

http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automotive-multimeter-with-tachometer-kit-95670.html

The one I'm using now isn't that expensive and I only bought because one of the leads broke on my old one which was also a cheapo that I've had for 17 years. Plus I wanted one with the clamp for AC current.

Sometimes the high input impedance of a digital meter is an advantage, sometimes not. That's when you drag out the analog version. They both have their place.

Personally I still have an old Knight-Kit Multimeter I built when I was a kid. Still works great.

I have a Snap On setup with dwell amp clamp etc.Its a whole setup that interchanges .Used it at work for 20 years and still works great.It was pricey but I got a deal so it cost me like 100 bucks.I also have an old old meter thats probally 50 years old.Its analog but still works great.Fluke as said is a good meter.If you only use it once in a while get a cheap one.No sense buying a pricey one to use say once every two years.Rocky

Well, Rocky, there is a good reason to do that if you're a tool snob like me! Just having that Fluke multimeter resting in the drawer, or those Snap-On dial torque wrenches, gives me a warm fuzzy glow that is rarely, if ever, equaled in life.

R.