Hey guys, I have a couple of questions about block filling. How high would you fill, for a 400 block? This will be driven as well as a race engine. Will be taking this on drag week. How will this affect water and, or oil temp?

I wouldn't fill much over the bottom of the freeze plugs unless you are going to use an oil cooler. I had one that was filled close to the top of the freeze plugs, and the oil got very hot in continuous driving loosing its viscocity.

Why would you want to fill that block? I know a lot of racers that have used filled and then unfilled blocks after they found a good block that sonic tested okay. Why would you want to have two different temperatures zones in your cylinders? Especially on a car that will see a lot of road time If your block is thin buy a better block, no bandaids One thing to keep in mind on block fillers is all cement shrinks as it cures, even expensive commercial non shrinking cement BTW, I do have three brand new bottles of Moroso block filler if you want to buy some of them at a good price

NO advantage to a fill on street unit
Save that $$ for fuel
Just because it is in the magazines does not mean you should do it. No advantage --it is used to shore up thin castings and "bandaid" for stock blocks that will be stressed beyond common sense for a stock block---in these days of aftermarket blocks--their is just no reason to do it--got a thin cylinder in a race block you want to save?--OK
Ground through the water in a SBC while stroker grinding? well then ok..but doing it because you think it will make a stock block stronger?? Forget about it--and main cap bolts are fine too , not much need for studs in most cases--save that Loot!

i have not been a big fan of block filling. it seems to me that you would want the top of the cylinder the strongest, but your reinforce the bottem with concrete. thats why i am asking the question before i do it.

heat soak on the oil temp was my biggest concern. an aftermarket just isnt in the cards right now, or in the near future. unless someone knows of somwthing.

Rok Block is the only product to use. It has epoxy in it, so it does not shrink, and conforms and sticks way better.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/Rokbl...K/#.VIhxNdItCvE

I can give you a filled one.....just don't expect it to circulate water ....don't go to high

Concrete is for in ground swimming pools not already over-weight race cars.

I use hard block!
It has cast iron powder in it. It's magnetic if you need to chip it out lol
Don't go higher then middle of the freeze plugs. Much higher and you get into the head bolt hole boss's and you will cut off water flow.

I look at it this way. My 500 cubic inch engine lasted 275 passes running 8.60's- 9.0's. (440 block) In Pa weather that takes me 3 maybe 4 years before I finally cracked a block.( no fill, no girdle) It costs me about 400-500 dollars paid out to do prep work on a race block so that's cheap in my eyes. If you go fast enough with a stock block sooner or later its going to fail and I don't care what you do to it. Now I know some street guys are going to jump in and say but,but, but in my statement I said IF you go fast enough. Running 9.0's-10.0's with stock stroke, stock crank engines my cranks would have cracks in them every rebuild (3-4 years)but i never cracked a block. I got to the place where I would tear the engine down and not even check the crank for cracks. I would just throw it on the scrap pile. I broke one stock main cap before switching over to a set of 440source bilit caps. By the way the block that cracked never leaked a drop of water, ran a 8.62@155mph on its last pass, and the crack was found during Winter tear-down.

Bottom line ( IMO ) with block fill is temp control. If you can't control the oil and or water temp, the rest is a moot point - and you could very likely have problems on the street in this area, even with a 1/2 fill. Here is what a 3/4 fill looks like on a small block. Yes, the water still dose circulate.

How many pounds will it take to the bottom of the soft plugs? HARD BLOK

i pulled the plug on filling the block. if you'll notice im from west Texas. so heat is always an issue. we're sonic checking the block this weekend. if i have a thin cylinder, then ill address it. cap walk is a bigger concern at this point, and i think we have it handled. thanks guys.

Bill,
The 508 in the Barnyard Viper is a tall filled 440 (to the bottom of the water pump holes). It has completed two Drag Weeks. Water temp never gets over 190, oil temp usually 210-220. We have a small oil cooler on it, and it needs a bigger one, when we push it hard, oil temp climbs to 230-240, and pressure starts to drop, 10-15lbs less than normal, and we change the oil at the next track!

It was a race engine that got pressed into street duty, so far, so good.