If your block is thin buy a better block, no bandaids 
One thing to keep in mind on block fillers is all cement shrinks as it cures, even expensive commercial non shrinking cement 
BTW, I do have three brand new bottles of Moroso block filler if you want to buy some of them at a good price 
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i have not been a big fan of block filling. it seems to me that you would want the top of the cylinder the strongest, but your reinforce the bottem with concrete. thats why i am asking the question before i do it.
Quote:I would not fill if you are contemplating street driving. I run a 3/4 fill on my small block ( race only ) because I am pushing well over 600HP with a stock block - even though it sonic tested good. On mine, water temp is no longer an issue. With about a gallon less than stock capacity, the water goes through the rad more often. I never see over 190. Oil temp is another issue. One pass and it is in the 200 degree range. Still ok, but it gets up there pretty fast and I am sure it would continue to climb with street driving. Unless you know that the bottom end is your weak link, I would not use fill.
Hey guys, I have a couple of questions about block filling. How high would you fill, for a 400 block? This will be driven as well as a race engine. Will be taking this on drag week. How will this affect water and, or oil temp?
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Hey guys, I have a couple of questions about block filling. How high would you fill, for a 400 block? This will be driven as well as a race engine. Will be taking this on drag week. How will this affect water and, or oil temp?
....don't go to high
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Hey guys, I have a couple of questions about block filling. How high would you fill, for a 400 block? This will be driven as well as a race engine. Will be taking this on drag week. How will this affect water and, or oil temp?
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How many pounds will it take to the bottom of the soft plugs? HARD BLOK
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Bill,
The 508 in the Barnyard Viper is a tall filled 440 (to the bottom of the water pump holes). It has completed two Drag Weeks. Water temp never gets over 190, oil temp usually 210-220. We have a small oil cooler on it, and it needs a bigger one, when we push it hard, oil temp climbs to 230-240, and pressure starts to drop, 10-15lbs less than normal, and we change the oil at the next track!
It was a race engine that got pressed into street duty, so far, so good.
Oil cooler would be the way to go if you decide to fill. I'm considering it, but since I never seem to get past the first round, . . . . . .
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i pulled the plug on filling the block. if you'll notice im from west Texas. so heat is always an issue. we're sonic checking the block this weekend. if i have a thin cylinder, then ill address it. cap walk is a bigger concern at this point, and i think we have it handled. thanks guys.
Quote:Didn't say you can't block fill, but you will have higher oil temps if you do. You are an exception. Actually, per the "Royal Purple" Techs, They got no problem running up to 250 degrees with their full synthetic race oil - what I use. They are speaking for their oil of course, not "other parts".
I am always surprised with the "you can't block fill" crowd responses. I can only give my limited personal experience, but it has worked fine for me. On top of it I went against a LOT of the mainstream information that pops up from time to time.
1) I did not use hardblock... I used Embecco 885. It's a metallic based grout, and a 50lb bag is only about 1/3 of the cost of a hard block bucket. It's shrink rates are very good (Only 0.8% after 28 days). It also has the same thermal expansion rate as cast nodular iron (6.5 in/in). Meaning it's properties allow it to maintain it's shape long term, and it will grow/shrink with the block well.
2) I filled the block AFTER it was honed. The motor showed zero signs of blowby at idle cruise. It does show some oil out the breathers under high boost, but NEVER in the exhaust.
3) I have no oil cooler. I had previously never even come CLOSE to having an oil temp problem until I put the engine diaper on the car. The diaper holds a LOT of heat. But previous with standard pan out in the air, the car would idle/cruise/WOT just fine with nowhere near an oil temp issue.
I probably have 100 total runs on my stock block, anywhere from 600~800hp level (depending on boost). Obviously boost is a completely different animal, so it's hard to judge just how much better it made the block, but I certainly think it helped it.
Just my
I went with Moroso's filler. It's grout based. Other choice is epoxy based. All make similar expansion / contraction rate claims. If you go with grout type, mixing it with cold water will slow down the setting time and let you block vibrate more air pockets out. Also, most recommend filling prior to any machining work
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I am always surprised with the "you can't block fill" crowd responses. I can only give my limited personal experience, but it has worked fine for me. On top of it I went against a LOT of the mainstream information that pops up from time to time.
1) I did not use hardblock... I used Embecco 885. It's a metallic based grout, and a 50lb bag is only about 1/3 of the cost of a hard block bucket. It's shrink rates are very good (Only 0.8% after 28 days). It also has the same thermal expansion rate as cast nodular iron (6.5 in/in). Meaning it's properties allow it to maintain it's shape long term, and it will grow/shrink with the block well.
2) I filled the block AFTER it was honed. The motor showed zero signs of blowby at idle cruise. It does show some oil out the breathers under high boost, but NEVER in the exhaust.
3) I have no oil cooler. I had previously never even come CLOSE to having an oil temp problem until I put the engine diaper on the car. The diaper holds a LOT of heat. But previous with standard pan out in the air, the car would idle/cruise/WOT just fine with nowhere near an oil temp issue.
I probably have 100 total runs on my stock block, anywhere from 600~800hp level (depending on boost). Obviously boost is a completely different animal, so it's hard to judge just how much better it made the block, but I certainly think it helped it.
Just my
....
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I am always surprised with the "you can't block fill" crowd responses. I can only give my limited personal experience, but it has worked fine for me. On top of it I went against a LOT of the mainstream information that pops up from time to time.
1) I did not use hardblock... I used Embecco 885. It's a metallic based grout, and a 50lb bag is only about 1/3 of the cost of a hard block bucket. It's shrink rates are very good (Only 0.8% after 28 days). It also has the same thermal expansion rate as cast nodular iron (6.5 in/in). Meaning it's properties allow it to maintain it's shape long term, and it will grow/shrink with the block well.
2) I filled the block AFTER it was honed. The motor showed zero signs of blowby at idle cruise. It does show some oil out the breathers under high boost, but NEVER in the exhaust.
3) I have no oil cooler. I had previously never even come CLOSE to having an oil temp problem until I put the engine diaper on the car. The diaper holds a LOT of heat. But previous with standard pan out in the air, the car would idle/cruise/WOT just fine with nowhere near an oil temp issue.
I probably have 100 total runs on my stock block, anywhere from 600~800hp level (depending on boost). Obviously boost is a completely different animal, so it's hard to judge just how much better it made the block, but I certainly think it helped it.
Just my