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Chassis being a factory production chassis and frame being a tube frame as in fabricated car?

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From what you are saying I call it backwards then...
when I say a chassis car.. thats meaning a tube chassis
car.. frame as in a production car... I do ground the
heads to the chassis but I use the chassis as the
ground link... so far I've never had a problem.. I
always looked at it like.. if you roll that .083 tubing
into a solid roll its greater than the 1/2" ground
cable... and thats just one side of the chassis...
electricity will always travel the easiest way(least
resistance)

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I do agree the chassis should be a good ground being you run your Neg off the battery to the chassis.I was having problems a few years back when I put my 1st all aluminum engine in my dragster and thought the chassis was good enough I even had my MSD ground bolted to it instead of the battery.But when I grounded each head to the same spot on the block as well as my MSD ground and run a ground cable to the Neg (which is ground to the chassis)like the MSD tech. said all my problems went away. I can grin about it now but when I was having problems,I did not think it was very funny and the tech. at MSD had a hard time making me believe it had to be that way.

PS I like to think that sometimes us Racers are just to smart for our own good....but I guess the Truth be told we are just to Hard-Headed to listen.

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Sometimes I don't know why my car even runs
My hole car needs rewired and I'm not looking forward to it.

That's interesting 1967artGT

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They also advised us to ground each head separately to insure proper grounding with aluminum heads.

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Interesting discussion...especially in regards to grounding the heads individually. Never heard any of this before

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I`ve checked the non-grounded head and it completes current and is fine reading voltage.............interesting. I also probably use too much ante-seize so time to clean out the plug holes I guess.

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Interesting discussion...especially in regards to grounding the heads individually. Never heard any of this before

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I`ve checked the non-grounded head and it completes current and is fine reading voltage.............interesting. I also probably use too much ante-seize so time to clean out the plug holes I guess.

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I would say NO dont use it! Reason is it will NOT be grounded as well as it could be. How many of you have ever checked the fluid in the radiator to see how many volts are there? The fact of the matter is that most cars seem fine but the electronics Dont work as they should. Heck yes you should ground your heads and 4130 chassis is the worst but mild steel chassis car still needs alot more than you want to believe to be properly grounded.If your having problems misses,running the same time-get a volt meter out and check the DC/AC in each circuit on your ride. This is what I have learned

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Interesting discussion...especially in regards to grounding the heads individually. Never heard any of this before

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I`ve checked the non-grounded head and it completes current and is fine reading voltage.............interesting. I also probably use too much ante-seize so time to clean out the plug holes I guess.

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I would say NO dont use it! Reason is it will NOT be grounded as well as it could be. How many of you have ever checked the fluid in the radiator to see how many volts are there? The fact of the matter is that most cars seem fine but the electronics Dont work as they should. Heck yes you should ground your heads and 4130 chassis is the worst but mild steel chassis car still needs alot more than you want to believe to be properly grounded.If your having problems misses,running the same time-get a volt meter out and check the DC/AC in each circuit on your ride. This is what I have learned

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I have actually been battling this problem for over a month now. Car ran fine below about 4K. Get above that and start running some boost and it starts missing. Seemed like an ignition problem, but after going through the entire ignition system ( multiple times ) I moved on to the fuel system and engine mechanicals. Verified the alternator was good. Volt gauge always ran around 14 volts. Ran a separate volt gauge directly off the distributor feed wire to make sure I was getting 14 vlts to it. When I would pull the plugs, they would always look good. Didn't even look at how much anti-seize was on the plug threads / washers. I was running out of ideas. Decided to put in a fresh set of plugs. Noticed there was a lot of anti-seize in the plug gasket area in the heads, so I wiped that area down and just used a drop of oil on the new plug threads. Engine missing problem gone! Blasts right up to 6500 and 15 lbs of boost without a glitch. I now have a spare ignition module, cap, rotor, alternator, valve springs, and a very clean fuel system.

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Been there done that myself,I was just to stubborn to listen to the Tech.Reps @ MSD.

PS some times we overlook the simplest things or refuse to listen to what someone tells us because we just know that can't be the problem or we think there is no need to do it the way they say even if they make/build the product.

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Is the difference in quality of the grounding measurable? In other words would the the block to frame ground show a different ohm reading than the head to frame? Or different voltage reading from positive to head versus positive to block? Just aksing?

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We have discovered for decades now that the motor-plates and the ground strap to the block does not provide a sufficient ground. It was initially un-covered that the black etch marks that appear around the block holes of front and rear motor plates was made due to the poor ground paths(we even saw etches in main and rod bearings). With coated studs, aluminum heads, coated gaskets,powder coated frames and customers relaying on the ground strap from the chassis to the block was not enough.
To be frank, the spark plugs are in the head and not the block! With this in mind, it was best to have a common ground between the electronics, battery and even the coil to eliminate any floating ground issues that may occur. Majority of the time ,this elinminate "misses" ,tach issues,data logger problems..etc.

Look at the drawing below:

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Been there done that myself,I was just to stubborn to listen to the Tech.Reps @ MSD.

PS some times we overlook the simplest things or refuse to listen to what someone tells us because we just know that can't be the problem or we think there is no need to do it the way they say even if they make/build the product.

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Thats a Moparts best quote right there

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This will answer the question about antiseize.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf

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Grounding - From MSD Forum

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We have discovered for decades now that the motor-plates and the ground strap to the block does not provide a sufficient ground. It was initially un-covered that the black etch marks that appear around the block holes of front and rear motor plates was made due to the poor ground paths(we even saw etches in main and rod bearings). With coated studs, aluminum heads, coated gaskets,powder coated frames and customers relaying on the ground strap from the chassis to the block was not enough.
To be frank, the spark plugs are in the head and not the block! With this in mind, it was best to have a common ground between the electronics, battery and even the coil to eliminate any floating ground issues that may occur. Majority of the time ,this elinminate "misses" ,tach issues,data logger problems..etc.

Look at the drawing below:

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Yes this is nothing new, when I was racing I never shared tech like this.
I love when guys doubt you and you go out beat there azzes on the track.

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They also advised us to ground each head separately to insure proper grounding with aluminum heads.

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yea because the single bolt and wire you're going to use to ground the head is going to have less resistance than the 17 head fasteners and four fire rings

idk where thy come up with this stuff, if the block and ignition are properly grounded i just don't see where this is necessary

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