putting big block mopar in dragster going to use glide. have j w bell housing it uses mopar starter. what cov. would I use mopar with glide snout or chevy with fly wheel ? thanks

Which flexplate did you buy? If none yet buy the parts, all of them, you need to use the Mopar starter on the flexplate for the Mopar crankshaft. I am going through this now on a tube chassis car with a glide in it using a JW flexplate for a JW bellhousing, it is a Mikes Monster Glide built in a Ried SFI Chevy glide case, I'm having starter engagement issues now Call Mikes 661-723-0081 for the correct parts

I use the JW wheel flexplate and a GM converter.
Mopar Block
Mopar Starter

Cab, I think starter engagement issues are common for that combination and that's why JW includes 3 or 4 spacers for the starter. I currently use 2 spacers on my smallblock and use one of the Mopsr mini starters that is at least 25 yrs old.

j&w bell, ATI flywheel, adapter and converter

jw bell, ati midplate kit/adapter for mopar to chevy bell housing (chevy pattern is easier to find/borrow in a pinch if yours goes down) hughes soft hit convertor starter upside down on right side

I would guess the convertor would depend on what input shaft is on the glide. I was up at JW's today to have an ultra bell installed and going to a 1.76 from a 1.82 and have to change the convertor snout because of the change.Call them they will help you 321-632-6205

Stock case Power glide with bell cut off
JW ultra bell
JW wheel (flexplate)
JW starter shim kit (most dratser use 1/4 to 3/8 mid plates)
JW Flexplate shim kit (same as above, but adapts the nose of the converter)
GM converter for power glide (you can go turbo shaft or power glide shaft ......your choice)

Bob Spelic

Your midplate has to allow the starter to bolt to the Ultra-Bell, otherwise you'll be nowhere close to the flexplate. You will have to shim it then so that you are not to deep into the flexplate.

I would mount the starter to the mid plate,that's the way I done mine.Almost forgot I use the mid plate as the adapter,that way the standard glide bolts to it with no mods.

Something to consider, the Ultrabell has a register for the starter snout.
If you bolt the starter to the mid-plate the starter snout may not be supported and it will break at the worst time.

My starter gear is missing engaging the teeth on the flexplate by about.100 by eyeballing it. The starter is a Powermaster #9513 for Mopars, it is mounted on the .275 thick midplate along with a .630 thick spacer mounted onto front of the midplate. I removed the spacer tonight and I"ll mount the starter onto the bolts tomorrow morning and see how much the starter teeth will engage the ring gear teeth I may end up having the spacer milled down to get it so the starter gear is around .080 at rest from the ring gear teeth

Engine kick back is what breaks the starters and fly-wheels(ring gear on the converter TF).But I have found the ultimate remedy for that a 16 Volt battery.I used to break a couple of starter snouts & at least one flywheel with the glide ring gear on the converter with TF for years.I went to 16 Volt batteries 5 years ago and have not broke one since.I still sometimes have a spit back through the injector on my dragster's and carbs on the door cars,but no kick back.The 16 volt batteries are stronger and turn the engine faster and eliminate all kick back.
I know this has nothing to do with helping the man get his engine in his dragster,but since it was brought up was hoping this could help him as well as others.I know I owe a lot of THANKS to the people on this site for all the help they have given me in the past.