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Re: engine and tranny install [Re: POS Dakota] #1053264 08/16/11 12:49 PM 08/16/11 12:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio Challenger 1 Too Many Posts
Challenger 1 Too Many Posts Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio	Quote: So...about those carb lift plates...I look at them and I just think it would really suck to drop a motor and trans if it pulled out on ya. Are they really that strong? Can I trust it? I've never tried one, but i think I am going to have to this time around since I will be doing it all myself. I have used that plate on many different motors, like 15-20 motors with never a failure. As long as the the studs are bottemed in the manifold, they won't fail. Failure can occur if someone uses bolts that are not bottomed in the threads. It's the handiest most compact way to do it, way better than those cheap tilters sold by HF. I have lifted International truck 392 and 404 gas engines which are much bigger than a 440. gETTING MY MONnIES WORTH OUT of that lift plate(it was free)

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: dOoC] #1053265 08/16/11 12:52 PM 08/16/11 12:52 PM
Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio Challenger 1 Too Many Posts
Challenger 1 Too Many Posts Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio	Quote: Quote: Quote: This guy here appears to be a first-timer... lots of the cheapO cranes being tippy.... And AGAIN .. him being a newbie. Then there's no better way to learn, then, is there. No coddling around here. You throw them into the deep end of the pool. They learn to swim REAL FAST. GOIN' Commando .... a DOUBLE ...at choo' ! The prob is ... is that if the M/T combo gets-away from the OP ... it can damage the car SEVERELY ...or he can damage HISself ! same thing will happen if he drops just the engine or just the tranny. It would be assaine to do it separately.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: dOoC] #1053266 08/16/11 02:41 PM 08/16/11 02:41 PM
Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,074 detroit, mi POS Dakota super stock
POS Dakota super stock Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,074 detroit, mi	Quote: Quote: So...about those carb lift plates...I look at them and I just think it would really suck to drop a motor and trans if it pulled out on ya. Are they really that strong? Can I trust it? I've never tried one, but i think I am going to have to this time around since I will be doing it all myself. I am not a FAN of plates with alum intake manifolds. I have seen one pull-through the threads and badly damage the pan ...and have heard of others. This is what I am deathly afraid of happening. I guess I can thread a bolt into the front and back of each head and use a 4 way chain...I always looked at those lift plates and felt funny.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: Challenger 1] #1053267 08/16/11 02:43 PM 08/16/11 02:43 PM
Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,074 detroit, mi POS Dakota super stock
POS Dakota super stock Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,074 detroit, mi	Quote: Quote: So...about those carb lift plates...I look at them and I just think it would really suck to drop a motor and trans if it pulled out on ya. Are they really that strong? Can I trust it? I've never tried one, but i think I am going to have to this time around since I will be doing it all myself. I have used that plate on many different motors, like 15-20 motors with never a failure. As long as the the studs are bottemed in the manifold, they won't fail. Failure can occur if someone uses bolts that are not bottomed in the threads. It's the handiest most compact way to do it, way better than those cheap tilters sold by HF. I have lifted International truck 392 and 404 gas engines which are much bigger than a 440. gETTING MY MONnIES WORTH OUT of that lift plate(it was free) I am only lifting an iron headed smallblock....but the intake is aluminum...I take it I should get some grade 8s instead of using the normal carb studs if I do try this.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: POS Dakota] #1053268 08/16/11 02:49 PM 08/16/11 02:49 PM
Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio Challenger 1 Too Many Posts
Challenger 1 Too Many Posts Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio	Quote: Quote: Quote: So...about those carb lift plates...I look at them and I just think it would really suck to drop a motor and trans if it pulled out on ya. Are they really that strong? Can I trust it? I've never tried one, but i think I am going to have to this time around since I will be doing it all myself. I have used that plate on many different motors, like 15-20 motors with never a failure. As long as the the studs are bottemed in the manifold, they won't fail. Failure can occur if someone uses bolts that are not bottomed in the threads. It's the handiest most compact way to do it, way better than those cheap tilters sold by HF. I have lifted International truck 392 and 404 gas engines which are much bigger than a 440. gETTING MY MONnIES WORTH OUT of that lift plate(it was free) I am only lifting an iron headed smallblock....but the intake is aluminum...I take it I should get some grade 8s instead of using the normal carb studs if I do try this. I always used the studs that were in the manifold even with iron heads, no grade 8 needed.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: Challenger 1] #1053269 08/16/11 02:57 PM 08/16/11 02:57 PM
Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 30,451 Florida STAYcation dOoC The village idiot's idiot
dOoC The village idiot's idiot Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 30,451 Florida STAYcation	Quote: same thing will happen if he drops just the engine or just the tranny. It would be assaine to do it separately. Chally_1 .... YOU of all people .. the 1 that appears to have two diff cranes/hoists ....one a ChinaMart and the other being a BlueBird To even suggest that a first-timer would have the same probs or luck with doing an install both ways ? .... A triple ..at choo' ! ..

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: POS Dakota] #1053270 08/16/11 03:04 PM 08/16/11 03:04 PM
Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 30,451 Florida STAYcation dOoC The village idiot's idiot
dOoC The village idiot's idiot Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 30,451 Florida STAYcation	Quote: I am only lifting an iron headed smallblock....but the intake is aluminum...I take it I should get some grade 8s instead of using the normal carb studs if I do try this. NEVER heard of a carb-studs breaking using a plate .... just saw the one pull-out what remained of the threads in the alum intake. I did not actually eyeball the actual failure in-progress ... but from what my Bud saw was the one fail ...and that failed the other one on that end ...THEN the other two went. It was lucky the engine was only a foot or so off the ground.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: buildanother] #1053271 08/16/11 04:11 PM 08/16/11 04:11 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,879 Virginia BSharp master
BSharp master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,879 Virginia	Quote: You can place trans up in there first, put crossmember in and trans mount, and can leave floor jack under it until eng is dropped in. Have done it a few times. I've done it like this and can then use a carb flange plate to install the engine without taking the hood off (worst part of the whole job), and I can do it all without help.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: Drip] #1053272 08/16/11 10:06 PM 08/16/11 10:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 31,050 Oregon A AndyF I Win
AndyF I Win A Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 31,050 Oregon	Pull the hood and then slide the engine and trans together into the car. An overhead crane makes the job a snap! With the crane it usually only takes a few minutes to slide an engine in or out. 6781643-install.jpg (71 downloads)

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: AndyF] #1053273 08/17/11 09:19 AM 08/17/11 09:19 AM
Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl B bonefish master
bonefish master B Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl	get one of these,worth its weight in gold 6782171-626.jpg (70 downloads)

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: bonefish] #1053274 08/17/11 10:35 AM 08/17/11 10:35 AM
Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 891 wisconsin 1BAD68 super stock
1BAD68 super stock Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 891 wisconsin	Another idea that I use is jack up and block the rear of the car. Then remove the front wheels and lower the front. It gives you even more of a angle for the engine/trans to slide in. 6782247-IMG_1452777.JPG (51 downloads)

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: bonefish] #1053275 08/17/11 12:01 PM 08/17/11 12:01 PM
Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,074 detroit, mi POS Dakota super stock
POS Dakota super stock Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 1,074 detroit, mi	Quote: get one of these,worth its weight in gold Where and how muchos?

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: POS Dakota] #1053276 08/17/11 12:26 PM 08/17/11 12:26 PM
Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl B bonefish master
bonefish master B Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl	Quote: Quote: get one of these,worth its weight in gold Where and how muchos? [/quote the info is in the pic.on the tool.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: bonefish] #1053277 08/17/11 12:39 PM 08/17/11 12:39 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 20,649 Eagle, Idaho Neil The Doctor is in.
Neil The Doctor is in. Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 20,649 Eagle, Idaho	I have one of those swivel plates and it works great. So long as the threads in the intake are in good shape you shouldn't have a problem. If your intake is a half stripped out swap meet special then maybe use one of the chain setups instead. Also you don't need to overtighten the studs or bolts if you use the intake plate. There is no way those can turn out once a load is put on them. I've seen guys lean on those like they are lug nuts and it's just not necessary. Hand snug is perfect.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: Neil] #1053278 08/21/11 10:50 PM 08/21/11 10:50 PM
Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 47 California D Drip OP member
Drip OP member D Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 47 California	Thanks for all the help. Put it in with motor and tranny as a unit from the top. used the intake plate. Was accually pretty easy. Did it by myself. thanks again.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: Drip] #1053279 08/21/11 11:17 PM 08/21/11 11:17 PM
Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central RobX4406 I Live Here
RobX4406 I Live Here Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central	Quote: Thanks for all the help. Put it in with motor and tranny as a unit from the top. used the intake plate. Was accually pretty easy. Did it by myself. thanks again. And you still have both arms and legs... I'm shocked! Nice job and good to read you got it installed.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: dOoC] #1053280 08/21/11 11:26 PM 08/21/11 11:26 PM
Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 3,886 Lost and Spaced B bboogieart master
bboogieart master B Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 3,886 Lost and Spaced	Quote: Probably simpler putting the trans in the car first(attaching it to the trans X-member then blocking the front of the trans up) ... THAN trying to put it in as a combo.... ESPECIALLY if this is your first time. That's the way I do it. No problem. I have mechanical Aptitude. I can screw up anything.

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: bboogieart] #1053281 08/27/11 01:14 AM 08/27/11 01:14 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 11,912 APACHE JUNCTION AZ J Joesixpack I Live Here
Joesixpack I Live Here J Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 11,912 APACHE JUNCTION AZ	engine/trans with tilter..... 6797252-004_4.JPG (57 downloads)

Re: engine and tranny install [Re: Drip] #1053282 08/27/11 10:15 AM 08/27/11 10:15 AM
Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,587 missouri, USA moparmojo master
moparmojo master Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,587 missouri, USA	*** Install as a pair. Prior to installing jack up the rear of the car. It is not absolutely necessary (as you can see by all the people here who do not do it) however, it makes the one peice install so much easier. It effectively makes the opening bigger to work with because it is at less of an angle. Jack the rear of the car as high as you can and install the unit. This is the easiest way and does not require a load leveler (although one does help). It also is the safest way to do it as it slightly lowers the front end and prevents your rad support from getting scrapped up. Just guide in the tail shaft and once under the cowl, just "slowly" lower the unit while moving forward at the same time. It should drop right in place. Then lower car and raise tailhouseing into place if necessary.

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