Just keep buying more new parts. It certainly helped during the build . I know the differences in body and mechanical. I was ASE master for mechanical and engine performance. I also used to do full body jobs. The approaches to each are different. The closest relation would be making a Chinese fender fit perfectly on a Dodge pickup...lol. Sure, it attaches right off, but to look right, and make an average body look great, they need work. Right? Same thing, but to a MUCH greater extent, on mechanicals, and even more so on engines and performance engines. You know when a fender's bent. So it gets a new one. Well, your new parts are telling you somethings wrong. I would say diagnose it. I've seen cheapo fuel gages that are usless except at idle(Summit?). I've run a 175hp NOS plate, and a 400hp 340 off a stock AC Delco replacement fuel pump and 5/16 line. A friend just had an MP conversion shipped with a bad module. And always, they have to be tuned. The vacuum gage will tell you what it's doign at idle in terms of running. The compression gage will tell you if the cam's out. I think the cam's fine. It's all in the tuning. Which from what you are dscribing, is not what you usually are challenged to do at work. Tuning is not buying. That's pars replacement, and in engines, there's a ton to be done way before you get to that. If you think the fuel pressure is the cause, get a cheap diagnostic fuel pressure gage and connect it up, so it's visible as you drive. You'll see the presures then. With what you have, 5psi should be enough to feed it. If it idles at 7-8, and drops to 4-5 at full throttle, you should still be fine. Diagnose first, then buy if needed.


Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.