Mattax, thanks for the reply. In my post, I said "off the other relay post" and should have said off the same relay post. Here's a photo of what I have. The red wire on the right goes to the battery. Originally it had a standard, cheap crimp terminal on the end. I crimped/soldered on a copper one and used heat shrink. The pink (red) fusible link on the left bypasses the bulkhead connector and goes through cowl right to ammeter. The blue/green fusible link on left is crimp/solder connected to the original, existing 10 gauge red wire which runs through the bulkhead connector. The original red wire to the ammeter which came through the bulkhead connector was disconnected, taped off. I was going to hook the original red wire through bulkhead block back up to ammeter and pull the bypass red wire out but now it sounds like I should leave the bypass one as I bought the car. Thoughts.
Terry
sorry I missed your posts
you need just to run a straight wire between amm and alt same as you did on the red wire and you are done. Use the same provision you run the wire between starter relay and ammeter.
Actally the alt side gets more stress than the batt wire. You saved just the 30% of the problem
You can reinstall or not the original red wire 12 gauge to ammeter and will give you more load headroom on wiring, although the 10 gauge wire bypass should be enough, specially if not AC. HOWEVER if you decide to get back the original wire up to ammeter will run both in just one fuselink. Could splice both red wires on engine bay side into one fuse link, 14 gauge.
If you decide not to hook it back, simply remove the blue 16 gauge fuse link from starter relay and from the harness red wire and done. No need for that fuse link there anymore
In my car has being running dual fuse link like you have at this moment, but thats not healthy in case of a short.
