The 225-40s should have three inches of sidewall visible beyond the wheel lip. I had a Stratus that I dropped 2" and ran those sized tires. It was a stiffer ride but nothing excessive. I know comparing the two cars is apples verse oranges.
I don't have a fender to ground measurement. I was just going to eyeball the fender to wheel gap and then see what my clearance is to the top of the inner fender. Even with the RMS suspension, that car has stock inner fenders. He's working with the same clearance As I will be.
I knew caster/camber would be an issue so I bought SPC double adjustable UCAs. Those should work great to get the best alignment. I have rubber bushings on the car with a stock sway bar. I can upgrade that once the car is on the road. I've got the MP 0 arch road race springs on the back. They might be a little too low. It depends on how low the front can go.
I appreciate the input. It looks like I'll get some 1.03 bars and see how they work.
But the bottom of the K-member should be what bottoms out first on
your car. The other stuff can/has been manipulated more. Like, aren't you running dropped spindles?
The bottom of an RMS crossover will bottom out before a stock K-member because the RMS sits lower.
Do you know the rim diameter and tire size of that Red Dart Conv?
If you did, I think I could figure out your K-member ground clearance.
The larger diameter rim and less sidewall give an optical allusion of being low. We naturally see these cars with a lot of black tire between the rim edge and top fender lip.
Ride height being constant: as the rim diameter goes up with sidewall thinning, that rim edge to top fender lip gets smaller. There is less black between the rim and fender.
