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Brad, they appear that they are all 7* tapers. The K727, K781 and K783 all match tapers after checking a 7* reamer taper against a spindle and lower control arm taper that I have sitting in the garage.

FWIW, the K5108 and K6024, bolt in GM style ball joints also have 7* of taper. Using either of these and a creative body mounting method would allow the use of GM style tubular upper control arms.

Check Speedway Motors as you can sort through their ball joint catalog by taper, material, height, thread, etc.


Thanks Tony! the K727 taper might be 7degs but it's much bigger in diameter. I need it to fit in a standard E/A-Body LCA.


that is true about the 7* taper on most joints. the problem is as stated. the k727 is bigger in diameter than a k719. just visualize the bottom of the cone shape. it's bigger at the bottom than the top even though it is a consistant taper from top to bottom. an example of this is the upper ball joint on the early a body. it must be changed to the 73 & later style joint to use the common disc swap spindle[s] unless you use the special spacers dr. diff sells to adapt the small ball joints to the later spindles. both joints are the same taper [7*], but the early joint is smaller [the top of the cone] than the later joint[bottom of the cone]. with that being said, speedway sells 2 different reamers for ball joint/tie rod fitment. #910-89411 [7* or 1 1/2" taper per ft.] which fits most of the stuff we play with. then there is the #910-89412 [10* or 2" taper per ft.]. this is mostly used on big gm cars like 71-80 something impalas and s-10 pickups etc. lower joints. now after all this discussion, as far as i know, the taper hole is on the lower arm of the a,b,e body and in order to use the "screw in" lower joint, you would have to modify the lower arm by welding in a ball joint "ring" then use a steering arm from several years[which i don't have in front of me at this minute] which have the taper "hole" in the arm to accept the joint. with aftermarket arms you can fab up anything, so any kind of joint/spindle/steering arm combination can be concocted. i went through this mix-n-match deal several years ago coming up with something for the suspension on my 33 humpback project that would/could use commonly available items, trying to stay in the mopar parts category. it can get mighty confusing real fast. and no, my humpback is not going to be a handling machine, as it wasn't to be at the start. suspension is facinating for me, so i like to learn even if i never use the info gleaned.