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Life begins at 20lbs of boost...

Me, simpilest way to get your project off the ground is too keep it simple. A procharger will do that.

If you go to a crank driven unit, you can run a stock water pump and keep most of you normal brackets and such...

Now if 1300hp is your limit, a 470 with an F1R pushed pretty hard will exceed that, meaning race gas or water injection. A 470 with an F2 will do that easy on pump gas...So a 4.15 crank and the best pistons & rings you can get. You start going above 520 cubes and you need a big air pump, and hp numbers get real big, but so do the expenses. A 572 can make +2000hp on pump gas....So cubes are really not needed. A good block heads, rods and pistons are...

Now I have researched this a bit, and New Era Racecraft I liked the best with a gear drive. You don't need a lot of cubes at 1300hp even on pump gas, but other custom things add up. So if a crank drive will fit with a split radiator set-up, or even a conventional side mount, they are easy to get going. Mopars like boost!

Boosted engines require better tech than some shops can provide, but read up on them. A well built engine will last...

http://www.neweraracecraft.com/engine-component-kits.html

(NER piston and ring packs) Stg 1P
Steve's development of piston and dish / dome profiles continues here at NER. As can be seen by the pictures on this site we use a multitude of crown designs, Flat tops, inverted domes, spherical dish, conical dish, button dish and a round dish. Different engines respond differently to the quench area we give it, the most noted is the BBCHRY's. As with most all of our items we sell, it comes from the school of hard knocks, there was a problem, we work to find the solution, we test it, then we sell it.

The other thing you will see in our pistons is they are hard anodized. This is the same procedure done to the Nitro pistons, it makes the pistons very tuff and it is NOT a coating like ceramic or Teflon skirts. Minor misses in tune up that would have lifted a ring land are totally eliminated, skirts are less appt to collapse and wont scuff, unless your tune up is so far out in right field you can't be seen.

Third thing is the ring pack. We sell all our pistons with Total Seal steel tops, Napier seconds and varying oil rings, depending on the application we may use a Dyke ring, 1/16 std style ring, .043" in the tops. Radial wall thickness may vary too but in general we are looking for a bullet proof ring pack so std D wall will apply in most cases. 4th we only use Nickel carbon steel alloy Pins in applications above 1200HP and below we use a high carbon Pin. No std cheap Pins that come with shelf pistons.

If you want the right pistons, the right crown design, and the right ring pack, you need NER's.

NER piston ring packs are $1,450.00 for most applications, and are made for us by J.E. and Diamond.

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