I've owned my Chally since 1975, always been rust free (stored winters), bought it with 22K odometer; been autocrossing it since 1975; car went through major transformation in mid-80s, including progressive changes in suspension (TBs, leafs, bushings, shocks, etc) primarily for concentrated hi-level SCCA Solo II/autocross competition, as well as for some hi-speed road course events). Streetable, but mostly trailerd between mid 80s through mid 2000s. Odometer currently has ~78K (put ~5K miles between mid 80s~early 2000). Chassis/unibody has no cracks or weld breakage, no stress cracks, etc... I know every inch of the car. Best mod ever for improved suspension handling was progressing stiffer with the TBs... the 1.24 is simply the largest to fit within the factory hex openings.... and a 1.24 TB is still very reasonable to drive daily... other mods compliment the "package" to my car.... again, primarily intended, and following the SCCA class rules for "E/Street Prepared".... rules have since changed a little since my past heavy involvement up to early 2000s, so a few other selective mods could be done, including welding in SFCs (must attach to the front and rear frame rails, not the leaf spring point).

The original T/A-AAR race cars used something like 1.4 diameter TBs.... makes the 1.24 and smaller TBs really weak by comparison. I had the opportunity to talk "unibody stiffness" with some Chrysler engineers face-to-face in the early 80s.. they told me our Mopars (concentrating on my E-body) had the strongest unibody designs compared against any makes, and even the AMC Javelins were very strong. At the time I was considering the "SCCA-Solo allowed Bolt-In SFCs"... they told me unless they were welded in, not to worry or bother with them (and I still don't have any SFCs.. maybe/probably someday). Our unibodies can certainly be strengthened, but I've never experienced any unibody or weld cracking, despite extreme g-forces (soft/ultra-sticky compound tires, such as Hoosiers). The car is intended to be driven at autocross and road course events, and certainly avoiding bad roads, pot holes, etc when driven on the street/hwy... If I were concerned about the ride stiffness, I wouldn't drive it on the street/hwy... even with the 1.24 TBs in it now, as well as some friends of mine with A-bodies having 1.14 (even 1.18), driving on the street/hwy is just fine and compliments the handling for better personal enjoyment.

Big TBs aren't for everyone, but small TBs (1.0~1.6~1.10) only lend the question: "These aren't bad at all... what would larger TBs be like?" That's why I encourage at least mid-range TBs like ~1.12-1.18 for best moderate results (leaning towards street/hwy as a larger % of someone's driving)... and still other mods are needed to compliment (leafs, shocks, etc). Don't forget.. "the nut-behind-the-wheel" will make the biggest difference.