Quote:

"Its a practice that should have disappeared before leaded/regular gas."

Newer is not always the only way. The disconect trial has worked for a long time with no problems. I'm not saying your method is wrong but don't discount the old way either. Both work and I don't see one being any better than the other. The statement the "the spike didn't show any immediate damage but who konws what damage down the road" doesn't hold water. If it is going to cause damage it would do it right now not later. So I say let's just agree to do it our own way and go from there. I will continue to suggest the disconnect way and you can recomend your way.



Stumpy, the disconnect method never was, and never will be an accepted nor reccomended method of diagnosing a charging system. Its very dangerous for the persons performing it, and it can do serious damage to the car.

Doing damage now or later certainly does hold water. If you think it doesnt it only solidifys your lack of knowledge regarding electronics.

What if I took every second stud out of the walls of your house? Would it still stand? Im sure it would, but what would happen if you got a foot of snow on your roof? What Im getting at is that the damage (although immediate) may not present itself until later.

Im sure in all your years as a mechanic youve learned alot, and Im sure theres probably a thing or two you could teach me too, but when it comes to diagnosing a charging system, you need to learn the proper way.

You also need to stop reccomending disconnecting the battery with the car running before your advice seriously hurts someone.

Use a multimeter. Instead of grabbing a wrench to disconnect the battery, grab a meter and check the proper way. Just think, no matter what you determine by disconnecting the battery, youre going to need a multimeter for the next step ( determing if the alternator has all the correct inputs)...so just use the meter in the first place.