Quote:

No oiling mods have been done with this motor. Perhaps when I rebuild, I should limit oil to top end (???)

I bought the block from a private party already cleaned and bored, then I bought pistons to match the .040 overbore. It had new plugs in all the galley's already, so I didn't re-check the passages. looking back, I probably should have had the machinist re-clean it. I had my machinist hone it, deck it, and align hone the mains, along with doing the crank.

Visually, the cam looks okay from what I can see through the bottom. But, I haven't torn the top end apart yet.

EDIT:
The other bearings fit into the #2 saddle correctly. Its the bearing, not the saddle. I assembled the motor, and although I'm not a seasoned engine builder, I paid diligent attention to the details, and I'm positive all bearings fit well and consistent at assembly.




I've seen bearings loose thier crush due to debris, it makes heat, being forced in between the crankshaft and bearings Try slipping one of the other bearing shells into that location, top and bottom, if they are tight fitting, snug, it is the bearing shells that came out of there that lost there crush(preload), not the block or cap Do your self a favor now and buy a set of automotive long stem bottle brushes for cleaning out the oil galleys so you can clean them out your self I use a garden sprayer with cleaning solvent in a pump up garden sprayer to help clean all the motor before assembling it, especially after having machine work done get some stiff bristle brushes and clean, clean, clean and clean some more Engine assembly is like brain surgery, to me, it is impossible to keep it to clean


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)