Quote:

I am going to work at is more thismorning and see what I can do, I am hoping to get 1-1/2" or so up on the tranny.

Clarification on the rear pinion angle, are you saying it will roll up 4deg under accell?

I guess the question I have is if the tranny is still 1deg down, wouldn't I want the pinion at 3deg down so it ends up 1deg up under accel. I will probably move the spring perch rather then use shims.





Do what you need to correct the angle, as I mentioned previously in the beginning of the thread, I estimate based on your pics, you'll probably gain no more than 3/4" without further trimming of the transmission tailshaft housing and assorted bosses,...you don't want the tranny too high, 1 degree down as it resides in the chassis would be ideal, but obtain what you can to balance out the Shaker issues as well....the rear pinion on a leaf spring car should always be pointed downward in relation to the driveline angle, as it will rotate upward an avg of 2-4 degrees upon acceleration (depending on many factors, esp spring windup, or lack of it, but assume the max, 4 degrees) So when I posted that driveline angle pic showing the relationship between tranny/driveshaft/pinion, that is in operational/acceration mode...don't be leary of using the Mopar Performance axle perch wedges to correct the rear pinion, I've used up to 4 degrees with no issues, although that's the max I would use....as to your last question regarding the driveline angles, yes that's the ideal situation if the tranny was 1 degree down, but even at that point, it's an initial setting, as you really don't know how much axle/spring wind-up you have, so a real world drive will determine if any vibration in the driveline exists during acceleration or de-acceleration, that will give you a final determination as to whether the pinion needs to go up or down a degree or 2 more, sure it's a lot of aggravation, but in the long run it extends the life of not just the U joints, but the pinion gear, yoke flanges, transmission bearings, syncros, etc...to let it go unchecked, or corrected just invites failure down the road, even if you feel no vibration, if the driveline is over extended in angle operation, wear of all the components involved will be accelerated, some very costly..


I've "been there, done that"...it can be aggravating at times, esp when you think it's licked, but you'll be a happy camper with a 5spd when it's finally dialed in right...PS I hope you dial indicated the bellhousing bore to the crank centerline, if not, now's the time to do it

Mike