I like your plan. Get a set of std tension std bore plasma Moly rings/good (full groove on mains) std bearings. Get the flexhone for moly rings 320 grit iirc. keep the cam bearings. Pull the ridge reamer cutter toward you rather than pushing it around the bore & check often as it does not cut even & never go past flush at any point so near flush is fine. I would not get the big Summitt cam. I would get one that would build some cyl psi. Break a ring in two and grind a hook with a sharp edge on the end & use it to clean the piston ring grooves. Mill the heads .030". Yes the outcome depends on the amount of bore wear/out of round/taper/piston wear but it will work either way and you said low buck and once the block/crank is in the shops' possession they WILL persuade you to part with a hefty sum of cash. Flexhone wants you to use their honing oil & I forgot what I used instead (iirc I called them for the grit # & the tech mentioned several substitutes (I dont think it's critical what is used) and he mentioned drill speed/# of passes. Read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com. Yes check the crank & see if it has a pilot hole & if it is large enough for a pilot bushing & if not you can hand drill a hole which does not have to be exact as there is no oil passages nearby you just need room for the trans input shaft tip then use the roller bearing that goes in the larger recess where the torque converter nose goes instead of a pilot bushing and people have even cut the tip of the shaft off if you wont be using the trans in another application just need enough length to go thru your new roller bearing for support. I think some/all of the info is in the archives