Well, being a cheap-[Edited by Moparts - Family Friendly Site - Keep it clean], I'll take a stab at some of this-

"Then use a ball hone to knock the glaze off the cylinders as prep for the new rings. basically wanting to freshen up the engine."

OK- a ball hone is really just to establish a the cross-hatch pattern that is needed for proper lubrication of the cylinder. It removes very little metal. So, don't think it's going to clean up the bore.

"What about the cam kit. Can I get away with just sliding in a new cam using the existing cam bearings?"

Cam bearing are CHEAP- especially if you buy them with a rebuild kit or bearing kit- something that will include all the bearing and rings, as well as the freeze plugs and seal/gasket. Buying it as a kit will be much cheaper than buying it piece by piece, and all of those parts are needed even in a basic 'budget' rebuild.

"What size and type of rings should I order? I am thinking the ball hone will not take off hardly any material so standard size bore?"

You can get the standard cast rings, but moly are better and only slightly more expensive. Well worth the cost- see my above comments about buying a KIT, not part by part. Also, if there is a ridge at the top of the cylider more than a few thousands high, then you are already out of the 'standard bore size' range. Depends on the ridge size though.

"As for the crank if there is no major damage I just plan on installing new rod and main bearings and then reinstall it."

You should at very least clean up the surfaces with a crocus (sp?) cloth. If there is ANY kind of damage you are going to have to have it cut. No way around this....

"Are there any technique or tips that anybody can offer concerning the ball hone and maybe slight prep of the crank for new bearings?"

See the above

Also- you say this is going to be mated to a 4-spd? The crank has to have a pilot bearing for that. So you need to see if the transmission end of the crank is machined to accept one, or if the crank was even cast with the depression to machine for one. In 1975 I doubt it will, but it might. If it doesn't, then it will need to be drilled, and then the pilot bearing pressed on. This can be done without a machine shop being involved, but I would not recommend it.

As a final comment- really, you spent all the time/effort to pull it apart, it is worth the couple hundred dollars to take it to a machine shop and at least have it cleaned/painted, have the cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, and have the bores, etc checked.
No Point in all this work if you have something major (like a cracked water jacket) wrong with the block. Cheap insurance really.

Good Luck with it.


CC.