Update:
New alternator, moved the MSD Heavy Red wire to the side terminal on the battery. Started up the car and I still have the ammeter and the battery voltage gage fluctuating. The ammeter is bouncing even more than before. It is now dipping down into the "-" side about half way and then pegging out on the "+" side at idle. At high idle, the fluctuating guages are a little better, then when the rpms come up to 1500, the gages are fairly steady.
During high idle, I put my hand held volt meter on the battery and it read 15.1/15.2 (cold start, cranked it a few times, battery was not 100%). Then I brought the engine rpms down to idle and the battery still read 15.1/15.2 volts.
**The battery voltage is steady at idle and high idle.**
So while the ammeter and the battery voltage gage inside of the car are fluctuating badly at idle and medium at high idle, the battery still showed the same reading with my volt meter.
Why did does the battery show a solid reading when using a volt meter but the voltage gage inside of the car is fluctuating from 13-16v at idle rpms. Is my voltage gauge going out on me?

Note: The ammeter and the battery voltage are now fluctuating even worse (more rapidily) then before the alternator swap and the MSD wiring swap.
Note: Both the ammeter and the battery voltage gage are both hooked up to the same 40a fuse that is fed from the starter solenoid. This connection showed the same 15.1/15.2 voltage that the battery showed during idle and high idle. (This ammeter connection is the positive "parallel bypass" wire)

Do I test my next new voltage regulator? I am thinking that the current one is fine since the battery is showing 15.1/15.2 after cold startup and with a cold battery.

Something is screwing with my ammeter/inside battery voltage gage, but I am not sure what. Since they are both hooked up at the same 40a fuse, I am wondering if the volt gauge may be going faulty. Since I measure both sides of this fuse and they both read battery voltage, then the 40a fuse seems to be good. I am thinking of tracing the wires from the inside voltage guage to make sure nothing else is hooked up to it. Then if not, I might just remove the power going to this gauge to see if the ammeter still acts up.

My headlights did not dim at idle or high idle and the ammeter/voltage guage did not change while turning on/off the headlights. My dash lights fluctuated just slightly, but barely noticeable. They are much brighter after the alternator swap.

Bad voltage guage inside of car? Faulty wiring inside of car? Try new VR? Bad ground?

Any suggestions?

Thanks a bunch!!