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NOTE TO READERS: I can be a real cheapass, so no moans from the purists.

Here's the absolutely least cost way to go. Assuming it really is a 30K engine, get the engine indoors and take it apart. I'm betting you will find some surface rust on one or two cylinders. This'll probably clean up quickly. Even if you had so much rust that you had to bore one or two cylinders and put oversize pistons in that one or two (which has been done before and WILL work okay), the other 6 or 7 don't even need to be pulled, except to ready the block for machining. But I have started many engines that have sat for years under hoods without more than checking the oil and getting the fuel system up to snuff and haven't had a problem with them sealing. So put new rings in a 30K engine? No way unless it's blowing smoke. Bearings? Don't mess with success. Run'em and forget about'em.

I'd spend some time looking at the timing chain. If it is a silent link chain with a gear with nylon teeth change it. Don't want any gremlins lurking! While you're at it swap cams for a small low-cost cam with less than 210 degrees duration at 0.050 lift and 110 lobe separation. Even a stock 360 cam will be better than the puny cam in there now. But you don't want to have to change valve springs so keep lifts at 0.440 or less. BTW, I do NOT like the Summit cams, They work okay but with a 114 LSA they lack midrange and close the intake valve too late. The Comp HE 252 would be a good choice if you could find it. There are a couple of Speed Pro cams that would also fit well.

Use the heads you have but put new valve stem seals on while you have the chance and check the seats and guides to be sure you don't have abnormal wear.

For induction I'd use a late 360 TQ intake or a Performer if you can find one cheap. Any smallblock 4-barrel intake will work. If you're into carbs then a Carter AVS would be pretty nice, the air valve secondary keeps it from being too big. I'm running a Holley 1850 600cfm carb and it works well on my 318. If you have access to Thermoquads or Quadrajets and can work on them yorself they'd also be good.

I'd concentrate on finding a '67 or '68 Valiant or Dart or even one older than that. They're pretty light.

Transmissions I'd use would be the A-998 or A-999 or the 500 overdrive. No sense going to a 727 at this power level. Combine the 904 types with a 2.76 gear for high speed running.

I'd spend money on headers because they beef up the torque curve under the peak.

If I was closer I'd drive over and haul it away. A 30K engine has some value left in it, even if it is a lowly 318. Just don't replace ANY MORE than you have to.

R.




this is what I'd probably do...if the bores look a little ooky, but not bad, maybe hone and toss some new cast rings in it....if you take it to a machine shop to get it honed, before you tear it apart, measure how far down in the hole the pistons are, and have the block decked to get compression up, try aim for the pistons ~.012-.015 in the hole, so you can use the Mr. Gaasket .028" thick gaskets to get ~.040 quench with closed chambered heads.

heads, use what you got, I'd probably go for a lunati voodoo 60400 or 60401 cam with comp #901 springs. if you want a real hard charger, swap the heads for some junkyard magnums redrilled to LA bolt pattern, and some hughes #1110 springs and chrysler 2.2L/2.5L retainers, or some junkyard '94-up GM 3.1/3.4L valve springs and retainers.

intake, any 4bbl, carb, probbaly an eddy 1406, t-quad or q-jet


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