Sambo101 how long has the paint been on the car?

joeshmo, I didn't like rustoleum either reason I used brightside.

if you don't want to deal with messy overspray its a better alternative.

Probably about a week in that picture, i didnt like my results though, so im going to sand back and put thinner coats down.

I have also order a porter cable polisher, so im hopping for better results.

if oyu let the paint cure for about 3 weeks to a month and then do the final wet sanding and polishing you will get much better results. Soft paint doesn't wet sand or polish to well.

has anyone had good luck with rolling rustoleum paint over or even using it under rustoleum brand paintable undercoating?

i didn't get to fully finish my car, and i have surface rust showing through the areas where i used spray undercoating.

my process for undercoating:
sand regular and prep as regular
put down 2 thin coats
spray undercoating
following directions for time, follow up with multiple coats of undercoating


i drilled holes in my new fenders to mount some trim, and touched it up with white paint. the paint never seemed to dry over top of the undercoating, turned brown, and i still wound up having rust around my drilled holes (in my new fenders!).

i planned on doing two tone on my older fox hatch and have a color mixed to match the original lower gray, but now i am wondering if the paint will just even change color, not adhere, or even rust from the backside-out......

has anyone used other products?
anyone try the spray bedliner with rustoleum roll paint?

thank you for any tips and advice.

To anyone still interested in doing this, I will post pictures of the utter decimation of my rustoleum paintjob from 6 months of New York winter and snow. Several rust spots that weren't present prior to painting, several topcoat failures on the hood and trunk, chips, scrapes, shrinkage. Not durable enough for my taste. Going to urethane as soon as it is warm enough.

mine held up through ohio winter(tons of salt in my specific area).

i am just upset that what i had used to protect certain vulnerable areas had failed me. i honestly think that the paint looks really good, and without washing it through the winter, i am very surprised at the shine that it had kept.

First off, I'd like to thank everyone here for ruining my life I discovered this topic via a link from The Samba, which I see many of us have made the pilgrimage from. I as up until sunrise last night reading this, and not sleeping because I couldn't stop thinking about it.
I paid $5K for a paint job for one reason and one reason alone: I didn't have the facilities. If I could build a booth in my garage, I would've sprayed this thing, but I'm already pressed for space with just the car. Seeing this topic made me feel crushed. But, this car has been a learning experience for me, so the next one will be better (and $5K cheaper!)
Have a few questions, though:
1. Definitely want to go the Brightside route. Sounds all around better. Has anyone put together a thorough guide on how to do it, yet? I've picked up bits and pieces from this topic, but hoping someone collaborated everything in one place.
2. Can Brightside paints me mixed with each other? As in can I add some white to the light blue to make it even lighter? I'm talking only using Brightside paints, not mixing other brands into it or tinting it.
3. How does the paint store? I was hoping to buy a gallon of the stuff, mix up my color, and save it to fix up dings and such without having to worry about mixing more and not getting the right color.
4. Foam rollers are awesome, I laid down Masterseries on my chassis with one beautifully, but not applicable in certain places. What about doing car rims, for example, which aren't very flat and full of curves and holes and such?
Thanks guys. Hoping to use this stuff to paint my rims and some interior pieces I have left. And to do many, many more cars in the future

To paint wheels,brackets, and other odd shaped pieces, I'd spray the paint. The easiest and cheapest route is to use rattle cans from the hardware store. A better plan is to use the little Preval sprayers. These sprayers are similar to the rattle cans, but allow a person to spray better quality paint. In fact, regular automotive paint can be used with these. (but wear all the necessary safety gear) These little sprayers are available at Hardware stores, paint stores etc. To see what they look like:

www.preval.com

It is critical to get the paint mixed thin enough so it will spray properly. If it's to thick the results will NOT be good!! (or it may not spray at all!) I'd suggest spraying some on a practice piece first.

Hey guys, it's been a while. Forgot to post some pictures of my project of last year. I decided to paint my Tbird with Tremclad Flat Black. Turned out better than I even anticipated.

How does the flat black do with dust, dirt, bird droppings, etc.?

It looks great by the way.

Well, it have no problems with any. Just like any other paint. I make sure I wash my car on regular basis to keep it looking clean and mean)))
Can't describe how much more attention I am getting now comparing to the regular black colour that it came from the factory

Seems like that flat finish would be a magnet for dust, dirt, tree sap, etc., since there's no protective layer of wax, no clearcoat, and not even a buffed out finish.

I used Rusto Gloss White, and have tons of problems with things like bird crap, tree sap, road tar, and bug juice soaking right into my paint, requiring me to use bleach to get rid of etched-in stains.

Plus, with no protective clearcoat, I have to scrub twice as hard to get the paint clean.

I am considering either a spray-on clearcoat or simply painting over the Rustoleum with Brightside that's the same color (Gloss White).

Anyone have any suggestions?

The Brightside does have Dupont something-or-other which I think has to do with ease of cleaning.

My car is in the garage, and even it gets crap on it, but it has been easy to clean with the Brightside on it.

The Brightside will also give you a much nicer gloss.. since your car is already white, it shouldn't take more than 2 coats to get a nice shiny Brightside finish on it..

So does Brightside need to be thinned out at all, or does it go right on as is?