was thinking on swapping out the usual bolts for studs while swapping the MP chrome pan for a cast aluminum pan.
however, the "stud kits" i have seen are just long 5/16x18 set screws. i would much rather prefer the 5/16x18 to 5/16x24 style studs, then use 5/16x24 serrated flange nuts to secure the cast pan.
thoughts/opinions, pros/cons on this ?
TIA !

I have only ever used bolts. But those castings can easily be stripped, so studs sound like a nice touch to me.
Everything you said about the serrated nuts sounds good also, since the gasket should NOT be over torqued.
Might be a little overkill, but I can't knock it.

If you want to spend the money on ARP studs, be my guest. But simple coarse threads with common serrated flanged nuts should be just fine, IMO.
Check around the shifter area. If the cable bracket mounts to the pan, there might be a reason to use bolts for maintenance/space reasons.
And if the pan has an internal baffle around the filter, the pan might not drop down far enough to clear the studs without moving rearward. Measure twice...

I'm using 5/16 set screws along with the serrated nuts on my all aluminum KB wedge motor oil pan fasteners on the aluminum Charlies oil pan
I hope they hold up okay

I don't think studs should pose any problems. Check AuVeCo and see what they offer.

Don't over think it. It's just trans pan fasteners.

If the 5/16-18 bolts worked on millions of torqflites, why worry about 5/16-24 now?

This would be my preference also...if I were to stud a Transmission pan

I have my pan studed with ARP studs. 50+ year old cases. It does help from stripping any case threads.

The problem I had with studding the oil pan was that trying to remove the pan while in the car. The front of the pan near the K frame could not drop down far enough to clear the studs,so I had to use bolts in the front by the K frame and studs for the rest of the pan. Some cars may have more clearance than others.

X2 on the pan studs but i have an aftermarket K.I will be replacing the studs with bolts.

You need to buy 4 shorter studs or set screws to allow the nuts to come off easily
I have used nuts on the threaded long ends above the block to lock and hold them in place

Since we are talking about transmission pans and using studs in the case, or not...

studs would be okay, but I typically Heli-coil all the holes, before they get striped. And use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts. You're not going to damage the case using the proper tools and torque specs.

any thoughts about using blue loc-tite on the studs or set screws in the transmission case ?
i would heli-coil the case, but the transmission is still in the car.