Looking for recommendations on an anti roll bar. Trying to find good balance between quality and price. Not afraid to spend if that's what it takes. It is a full tube chromoly chassis

Alot of separation on drivers side

I use Chassis engineering, the heavy duty one.

Torquedlite? Try raising your instant center and compensating with a stiffer shock setting. It might get you to acceptable twist without spending $$.. if the suspension is right on the neutral line, it can cause twist like you have. Getting away from the neutral line will help . Only testing will reveal if it is enough to suit you.

RJ Race cars (Quarter max) is what I run. It is the cheapest I found and good quality. I have played with my 4 link for a long time and no matter what adjustments I made, the body roll was present. We put the anti roll bar on, and it made a WORLD of difference. Car leaves so much nicer with the anti roll bar. Once you get one on, you will be very pleased. A lot of people say if you're running a 4 link, you need to be running an anti-roll bar.

I bought the small one for a Daytona chassis car. It worked. But the big ones are much sexier. Buy the biggest one that you can afford. The big ones are unbelievably expensive.

I agree. I've installed a few chassis engineering ARB's in friends cars, and run one in my Road Runner.

IMO, every race car should run a ARB. Makes a big difference, even on ladder bar cars.

I put this one on my old Duster eons ago and have had one on my Dart for the last 10 years or so.

https://quartermax.com/quarter-max-anti-roll-bar-kit/

Its cheap and easy but I might go a step further and get the Pro series if the car is quick enough. It has a beefier bar for less flex.

Yep, this is the same one I got. Works great.

The ONLY thing I'm not a fan of with that ARB, is the Teflon bushings. I prefer the bronze bushings the Chassis Engineering ARB comes with. Both work, just a preference.

certainly appreciate the input
i was looking at this kit from Tim Mcamis https://timmcamis.com/product/rear-sway-bar-kit-unwelded/.
it is needle bearing rather than teflon bushing.
the car is a torqueflite. we have adjusted the 4 link as much as we can and played with shocks a bunch, we put limiters on the front.
our next move was going to be to add weight up front, but i want to flatten it out before i do. the difficulty i think is the motor sits 12 inches back from stock making for a very light front end

RJ Racecars who we use for almost everything. Just put one my Dakota

I pull mine off every couple years and clean and put a slight amount of grease on them. Never had any problems.

Tin Soldiers makes a nice one as well.

What an anti-rollbar.

I run a home made Pro Stock style 4130 chromoly A.R.B. with oil lite bronze bushings and greasable zerk fittings. (Pics added, during the rear end mock up stage).

When choosing diameter, even 1/8" is a huge difference

Looking at the photos, I see a big difference in chassis geometry between them.

4 link? 3 speed trans? Good DA shock? Big power, light car, SLR in the 10-12:1 range can be a challenge.

AR bars are a good idea on most cars with power. Some folks will even use them for tuning touch ups rather than the chassis links.

If you need one, put a good one on it, or you just be twisting it up.

It's a passive mechanical device that when one wheel on an axle is loaded enough to compress that side's suspension (coil, leaf, air bag). it directly, less any compressibility of the sway bar, "lifts" the other tire and compresses the other side's suspension. the end result is a flatter chassis under unequal load, it does NOT contrary to many, equalize carried weight.[i][/i]