Here is some pics of what I have found messing with this ...control arm doesn't follow centerline of the car.

so You end up with this geometry when the rear cam is drawn in, it moves the upper ball joint rearward, driving the top of the tire out. Might be just on this car...

this pic is where I had it. 1/2 degree neg. caster....1 degree positive camber. Rear cam all the way in, front cam In the middle of adjustment.

this pic is with the rear still all the way in , front cam now moved all the way out...Didn't measure this time just moved it for reference but when I started I had it this way. Cant remenber the number but it is leaning more out at the top...

would it be possible to place a shim between the lower ball joint and the spindle ?
that would effectively move the bottom out, giving you negative camber.
i have had to do that on a couple of crashed cars that were still slightly tweeked after the repairs.
you could use grade 8 washers, or make a shim the shape of the lower ball joint attaching point.
i can't say how thick to start, but maybe .093 [3/32"] or .125 [1/8"] ?

there are these spacers...
http://arengineering.com/products/tie-down-set-0-188-thick-3-inch-length/

i thought i remembered someone had those, but i forgot who. ["oldtimers disease" ]
thanks for the reminder !
it looks maybe a couple of grade 8 washers [like in the link] might do the trick. way easier than fabbing up a plate shim.

Same thinking...I was going use the bushings to offset the whole upper arm in. I'm sure we could figure it out say imagine a circle with the the upper joint as the center draw a radius line out to the lower joint the factor in the shim and figure out the degrees.

Funny this car was never wrecked, and all stock, except for a spindle swap.

keep the comments coming, will post the progress...thanks everyone If anyone cares...

I'm telling you something is wrong. Wrong part, bent,etc. The rear cam ALWAYS draws the upper ball joint rearward. Do you have the upper arms on the correct side? I have over 30 years alignment experience. Never seen one with readings like this on a B body.
Doug

Right, upper ball joint rearward... tilts the top out...at least on this car.

OK, so here is the rear cam in, front cam out, camber is 2 degrees positive.

turned the front cam in (pulls upper ball joint forward) get some negative camber a quarter degree

I still agree with Doug. No way possible that should give you positive camber. I've done alignments for 40+ years and hundreds of old muscle cars. I see you don't have fenders, bumper etc on car. That weight will make a difference! I wish you were closer, I love to see what you have. Sounds like you're just going to have to find a happy medium and leave it. Jeff

Yeah, figured I would re-set to height after I hang all the stuff back on.

I'm no nu-be here either, not a professional though. None of my vehicles have been to an alignment shop in over 20 years, even my every day stuff. I am new to the offset bushings though. My gut says to put both bushings in so it draws the whole arm in, not one in one out. I'm not sure how much neg camber that would give...maybe too much. This car didn't drive bad before being parked...think about that one Probably will now

i might be in the wrong here and mis-understand what the OP is saying.
but when i did front alignments on old mopars on a older alignment machine. it wasn't that old, it did record and respond the measurements electronically.
to get CASTER you had to turn the wheel it think 20* to the right. save the measurement. then turn the wheels 20* to the left, save the measurement. than put the wheels to 0*, save the measurement and do something with the measurements to get actual caster measurement. called caster swing.
i don't know exactly what is required with the measurement because the machine figured it electronically.

to the OP are you doing this? or am i mis-understanding what you are trying to say on the measurements?

also you can't get accurate alignment #'s with the front end removed. the missing parts weigh a fair amount. after adding this weight it will lower the car and decrease your positive CAMBER #'s towards negative caber. and increase your positive CASTER #'s to higher positive numbers. for all you know you might already be getting good #'s and don't know it.
also you need turning plates, or something on the floor to ease turning the wheels. you also need them to measure the * of wheel turn on your caster swing. doing this on without anything will also make getting proper #'s really difficult.
also are you setting the ride height before starting. if the front end is to high or low this can throw off your #'s. if it's to high you will get lower positive caster and higher, positive camber. if it's to low you will get higher positive caster and lower positive camber.

I must correct some of my prior posts....I re-swept the caster tonight several times with the ball joint all the way back, rear cam in, front cam out, 40 * sweep, 20 degrees out 20 degrees in. I am only getting 3/4 of a degree positive caster. So final reading is with the front end height set at 2" and upper arm set back as far as possible is 2 degrees positive camber.. 3/4 of a degree positive caster.
If I lowered the front end it might bring camber back. But I have a deep sump pan and want to run the 2" height. So I am going to install the bushings per the previously described, front out and rear in to gain more caster. Still not sure how it will effect the camber but we'll find out.

i wasn't criticizing, i wasn't fully understanding the situation. that's why i made my comments.

whenever i had problems with alignments i was always taught to start at the beginning and make sure everything is proper when you start getting goofy #'s.

i want to again stress the importance of either turn tables or plates with grease on the floor. i don't see anything in the pics you provided. without this it can throw off you #'s pretty easily.

also i don't know if you are doing this but whenever i make adjustments or start getting goofy #'s i like to cycle the suspension a couple of times then re-measure everything again..

I have two old pieces of linoleum flooring that are greased between, you can kind of see them in the last pic. next step is in stall the bushings and see what the results are. The feedback is appreciated...
You're right when I did move them for the picture purposes there was no plates. Any time the gauge is on it I have the plates under it.

Here is what I have found:
1. Typical factory settings I have always been able to dial in. This is the first car of mine with a non original height spindle. This is the 70's disc b-body spindle which was taller than the original one that it replaced
2. The factory geometry runs one way, more caster more camber. At least on this car.
3. The factory settings were not achievable. too much camber. It was close, but I didn't want the factory settings anyway, 0-3/4*positive camber and 0-1*negative caster.
4. getting negative camber along with positive caster is a tough one. Using offset bushings I was able to get 1.5 degrees positive caster but the camber was still positive. The issue is you already have the rear cam and offset bushing so that the rear of the arm is in as far as it will go. So the only way of pulling the camber back is to bring the front in from max out.Which starts to draw the caster back also.
5. shimming the lower ball joint with washers was they only last solution, reducing camber with out losing caster.
6. Unless you are pushing the max adjustment the offset bushings don't help much, mine where only required in the rear position even though I put them in both.. It allowed more inward movement of the rear of the arm beyond that of the factory cam. Because I had to wind the front in from max out to reduce positive camber it just changes the position of the cam based on the offset of the bushing, when you get to your acceptable trade off, camber for caster and vise versa.The sweet spot would have been achievable with a straight front bushing also.

My very good friend has an alignment rack in his auto repair business, but after deliberation, once the car is on the road we believe we will find the same result.

must be the way the earlier cars are designed. or maybe 66-67 specifically..
like i said, I put firm feel upper arms on my 67 Coronet, and it had the taller spindle for disc brakes on it already so I kept them. With the cams adjusted the way you started out I had visible positive Camber, to adjust that out I lost some of the Caster but I ended up at 2.5* Caster and got to -.25* Camber on the Pass side.
The Driver side had a little better numbers so I adjusted some Pos Caster and some Neg Camber out to get that side to match the Pass side.