I agree with being light but this is a pro street theme car so I’ll have as complete interior as I can. A good build of the 400 could easily get me low into 11’s bc I’ve done it and with a shot of nitrous down into high 9’s. I was thinking it would be good if I could do that with a stroker.

You could with a stroker, but it will have to have an arm and good heads and cam to bat.

Yes, that’s right. I’m looking for the right info carb to oil pan and balancer to converter.

mine is a 471 flat tops pump gas sr heads 69 satellite full interior full exhaust. all steel but hood. only went to track once went 6.63 at 104 still in 2nd gear. a little tuning or gear it would be close or step the heads up to 440-1 and your definitely there.

I will go one step further since someone mentioned e-body's are heavy as a tank....which is not totally true by the way, But lets say you do want to go 10.0 the easy route..then switch from the 400/512 and do a 440/543 from 440Source...Torque is king in getting a car moving. Put a good set of heads on it as mentioned above and 10.7:1 compression, and you should be in the 9's on pump gas with a 4150 carb and an Indy single plane...

My street Challenger. Basically a slightly modified stocker. Small block, 4 speed, aluminum wheels, radiator, and intake, power steering, manual factory disc, headers, full exhaust. No cage or bar. 3580 w/o driver. Now as a race car yes you can lighten it up. But as a streeter it'll be 3700+ with driver easy. My previous race car made just over 700hp. It ran a best of 10.13@133@3475. No exhaust, loose converter, 4.10. A low 10 car needs at least a bar, exhaust for the street. At street weights that requires at least 700hp.
Doug

Any of the combo's I have mentioned above are right around 700hp depending on cam and heads...My current car is running 9.60's with one of these combo's and we have a 512 street car with Iron heads running 10.70's on its first outing already.....So, if it were me, I would take the easy road so the cam and gears are mild enough to be an enjoyable street car and go the 543 route....Now there is one concession on this type of build you should know about....You won't be using the internal oil pick up....For us, we would never go any other way, but others are sticklers for their favorite purple cam and stock oil pan pickup.....

I like the idea of staying with the B engine bc that’s what I have but you’re right, the 440 stroker make make it easier to reach my target

I have been doing some reading and wondering about if I should use external Oiler and also see where some recommend girdle on the mains. It’s never as easy as slap on some heads a cam and a crank kit ! Lol

Man that’s one badass small block !!

The girdle is a necessity at that power level, and so is a rev limiter set under 7k....

Well, on my race car we switched to a B engine for a lot of reasons. The main reason is it fits in our little A-body car a lot better than an RB....In an E-body, there is a ton of room. Other than that, we have not seen any other real advantage to them....If you have a good one, build what you have. They can easily make +700hp....Ours went 6.16 at 111.5mph last weekend in the heat of the day....There is more in it as our carb is still lean thru the whole rpm range yet. So we will see.

Looking to do somthing a lot different for next year though......

Nitrous substitutes the danger of breakage due to accident ("did I hook up the fuel solenoid?", "how many degrees retard per HP added?") for the danger of breakage due to the higher RPM of an NA engine with the same power.
Nitrous also does not screw up your idle quality, gas mileage, and traffic manners.

I have hit 10.70's in my 63 Sport Fury driving it to the track and racing it as its driven through the full exh on 92 pump. Its a 440/493 with 10.6 comp using Indy EZ heads and the Indy dual plane intake. I run a Holley 850 DP carb and a Mallory dist and MP ECU. I have not lightened it any as I wanted to get it in the 10's with everything on it. It still has the heater box and steel bumpers. I did get a glass hood as I did not want to cut my original hood when I put the scoop on it. The cam is a solid flat tappet from Dwayne Porter as its 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. Its in the eng on a 106 ICL. I use Hughes 1.6 roller tip rockers. Has TTI 2" headers and TTI 3" exh with Dyno-Max Ultra-Flow mufflers. Its a 727 with a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body and a Dynamic 9.5 converter. Has an 8-3/4 with 4.30 gears and I run a 30 x 9 rear tire. It weighs right around 3700 lbs without me and I added a rollbar and frame connectors. Best et is 10.76 and 125.31 mph. I really like the fact that I can drive the 45 miles to my local track and just bleed the rear tires a little and go run 10.70's and 10.80's. Its a real fun street car and I don't change a thing at the track as I race it just how I drive it. Ron

I wasnt clear. The Challengers specs were in referance of E body weights. The old race car was a 63 Dodge 498 with unported-1s and a factory cross ram.
Doug

Is boost an option?

512, good heads with a mild cam should hit that goal by accident.

Kevin

[quote=383man]I have hit 10.70's in my 63 Sport Fury driving it to the track and racing it as its driven through the full exh on 92 pump. Its a 440/493 with 10.6 comp using Indy EZ heads and the Indy dual plane intake. I run a Holley 850 DP carb and a Mallory dist and MP ECU. I have not lightened it any as I wanted to get it in the 10's with everything on it. It still has the heater box and steel bumpers. I did get a glass hood as I did not want to cut my original hood when I put the scoop on it. The cam is a solid flat tappet from Dwayne Porter as its 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. Its in the eng on a 106 ICL. I use Hughes 1.6 roller tip rockers. Has TTI 2" headers and TTI 3" exh with Dyno-Max Ultra-Flow mufflers. Its a 727 with a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body and a Dynamic 9.5 converter. Has an 8-3/4 with 4.30 gears and I run a 30 x 9 rear tire. It weighs right around 3700 lbs without me and I added a rollbar and frame connectors. Best et is 10.76 and 125.31 mph. I really like the fact that I can drive the 45 miles to my local track and just bleed the rear tires a little and go run 10.70's and 10.80's. Its a real fun street car and I don't change a thing at the track as I race it just how I drive it. Ron

[quote=383man]

pretty cool and where i ant to be with mine

my original plan was to use a blower but i think because of ease my power adder of choice would be nitrous

On your deal I wouldn't look at any power adders with a good sonic tested 400 block
Put a set of aluminum main caps and ARP main studs along with a good set of M.W heads and a good single plane intake with a 850 CFM or larger carb. with a 4.25 stroke crankshaft with a set of good forged pistons and rods that will give you between 10.0 up to 10.75 to 1 compression ratio for todays pump swill and tune it up so it EATS
Have fun, enjoy the thrill of lack of traction

In the OP’s first post:


Ron’s 63 is a great running combo, in a sweet looking ride for sure.

But...... that’s not “low” 10’s........ and it’s probably a few grand difference in $$$ too.

I have personally witnessed Ron drive that car into Cecil county...he was behind me in the line going in. Any way....he said his car was 3700? withought hin in it.... Put that driveline in a 3000lb A body...there you go LOW streetable Tens, maybe even a high 9 !
OK I went back, the OP has a 73 barracuda. Copy Rons combo and make sure the car weights 3100-3400...