10 second stroker recipe

I’m looking to be in the mid-low 10’s on motor in my ‘73 barracuda.

I have a ‘72 standard bore 400 block base for my stroker.

I’ve been looking for heads and am now thinking I just need the advice and get the parts right the first time.

Intake
Heads
Kit?

Thanks

What is the intended use?

100% race car?

Street/strip?

With either, I'd be looking at as a foundation of:

512" kit - Contact the vendors on here
Trick Flow heads/intake
Custom solid FLAT TAPPET cam
2" primary headers

This is the help I’m looking for. It will probably be more street than strip but it will be run at the track.

Low tens requires a fairly stiff gear, converter, and cam. Not very street friendly. At 3650 lbs you need close to 700 hp corrected. It can be driven on the street but will just blow the tires off. 11.0 combo is probably a better street deal.
Doug

You’re right. But I know I can get into 11’s with the standard configuration of the 400 adding good heads , cam , converter and gear.

Low 10’s, even in the southern heat and humidity isn’t all that tall of an order in a Cuda....... the hard part is reaching that goal with something that isn’t a bracket race car with tags on it.

As long as you’re willing to live with the drivability that goes with steep gears, a loose converter, and cam maintenance....... and probably enough compression to need to at least mix the gas.

For something more streetable........ back it down into the high tens...... put a small shot on it to get the rest of the way.

I’d be shooting for at least 750 std corrected hp if the N/A target is low tens being raced in the south central region.
You’re going to lose 75-100hp as it sits in the car in typical weather down there.

511, TF270’s, 11.5cr, 400-3/4500 carb, 2” headers, roller cam, 1.6 rockers.
45-4900 9.5” converter, 4.10’s

Is the car set up to go low 10's? If so, what is the weight, tire size and gear ratio in the car. If all of those things are ready to go then building the engine and trans is the easy part. A 700+ hp big block is fairly simple to screw together from parts you can buy over the counter. 4.25 stroke rotating assembly and a set of Trick Flow heads will get you there. Compression depends on what you want to run for fuel. If this is street driven or EFI then you'll want to stay with an unleaded fuel. If it is race only then go for it. Same thing on the exhaust side. Race only allows you to use open exhaust while a street car requires a lot of extra work (and weight) for a full exhaust system. Cooling system is the same way and so are the brakes. Race car stuff can be simple and lightweight, street stuff has to be a lot more robust.

Thanks fast, I was hoping you would have some input.

As far as the car l, it was previously a drag car that has been rubbed with narrowed 8 3/4. It had a 12 pt cage but I took that out when I replaced the firewall and floors. I’ll be putting an 8pt back in it. I should be able to get it to hook. Also has all new suspension and 4 wheel disc brakes.

Thank you ! See above comments to fast . I haven’t weighed the car yet and since I don’t have any go fast parts yet I will buy the converter and gear to go with it.

Budget?

I don’t have a set amount I’ll spend all at once. I’ll do this like I have done all my projects - just buy things when I can.

We went 10.73 the other week with 3.91 gears and mufflers and a .560 lift cam and IRON heads and 10.7:1.....Strokers don't seem to care much...Not sure what it weighs, probably 3500 with me in it. Wait till we get the new Indy fully ported 325's we just scored put on it!

I prefer the 440Source 512 kits with the girdle and Indy heads. I know nothing about the Trick flows, but the Indy heads from the EZ1 on up to the 440-1's will hit 10's no problem. The more you spend here, the faster it goes...If I had it to do over on my race car, I would have probably gone to the B1 heads had I known how well those flowed. They seem to be one of the best "bracket" car heads out there and a step up from the Indy 440-1's.

Intake, again we like an Indy 4150 single plane for street, and same thing in 4500 for race.

Carbs, we like the cheap out of the box Proform 1050 or go all out and get a Thumper carb...

Let me give you some advice on parts and purchasing them, buy the good ones once, not cheap ones and then learn later you have to replace them later to reach your goals

Sounds like you’re having fun with it. Thank you !

Can't tell you how to go about it, but my DD is a 4-speed OD automatic (Lexus A340E), and I don't know how I ever got along without it.
My SLR (1st gear X axle ratio) is 10.6:1, equal to a 727 with 4:31:1 axle. With a 3.77 axle & 26.6" tire the engine turns 30 mph per 1,000 rpm - 75 mph is 2,530 rpm.

That’s the plan. I have an engine in the car now so I’ll be able to enjoy it some while I’m
Collecting parts.

Exactly, add another 150-200lbs for an E body and add enough power to go .6 quicker. I'm assuming 10teens as low 10's.
Doug

Build a mild low 11's car with mild rear gear and converter and use spray to get into the 10's.

We really enjoy driving our '63 with 2800 stall and 3.54 gears.

Go lightweight and you will see the light at the end of the quarter tunnel flash 10's.

I agree... light is right.. also easier on parts plus you dont need to make
the big HP

I agree with being light but this is a pro street theme car so I’ll have as complete interior as I can. A good build of the 400 could easily get me low into 11’s bc I’ve done it and with a shot of nitrous down into high 9’s. I was thinking it would be good if I could do that with a stroker.

You could with a stroker, but it will have to have an arm and good heads and cam to bat.

Yes, that’s right. I’m looking for the right info carb to oil pan and balancer to converter.

mine is a 471 flat tops pump gas sr heads 69 satellite full interior full exhaust. all steel but hood. only went to track once went 6.63 at 104 still in 2nd gear. a little tuning or gear it would be close or step the heads up to 440-1 and your definitely there.

I will go one step further since someone mentioned e-body's are heavy as a tank....which is not totally true by the way, But lets say you do want to go 10.0 the easy route..then switch from the 400/512 and do a 440/543 from 440Source...Torque is king in getting a car moving. Put a good set of heads on it as mentioned above and 10.7:1 compression, and you should be in the 9's on pump gas with a 4150 carb and an Indy single plane...

My street Challenger. Basically a slightly modified stocker. Small block, 4 speed, aluminum wheels, radiator, and intake, power steering, manual factory disc, headers, full exhaust. No cage or bar. 3580 w/o driver. Now as a race car yes you can lighten it up. But as a streeter it'll be 3700+ with driver easy. My previous race car made just over 700hp. It ran a best of 10.13@133@3475. No exhaust, loose converter, 4.10. A low 10 car needs at least a bar, exhaust for the street. At street weights that requires at least 700hp.
Doug

Any of the combo's I have mentioned above are right around 700hp depending on cam and heads...My current car is running 9.60's with one of these combo's and we have a 512 street car with Iron heads running 10.70's on its first outing already.....So, if it were me, I would take the easy road so the cam and gears are mild enough to be an enjoyable street car and go the 543 route....Now there is one concession on this type of build you should know about....You won't be using the internal oil pick up....For us, we would never go any other way, but others are sticklers for their favorite purple cam and stock oil pan pickup.....

I like the idea of staying with the B engine bc that’s what I have but you’re right, the 440 stroker make make it easier to reach my target

I have been doing some reading and wondering about if I should use external Oiler and also see where some recommend girdle on the mains. It’s never as easy as slap on some heads a cam and a crank kit ! Lol

Man that’s one badass small block !!

The girdle is a necessity at that power level, and so is a rev limiter set under 7k....

Well, on my race car we switched to a B engine for a lot of reasons. The main reason is it fits in our little A-body car a lot better than an RB....In an E-body, there is a ton of room. Other than that, we have not seen any other real advantage to them....If you have a good one, build what you have. They can easily make +700hp....Ours went 6.16 at 111.5mph last weekend in the heat of the day....There is more in it as our carb is still lean thru the whole rpm range yet. So we will see.

Looking to do somthing a lot different for next year though......

Nitrous substitutes the danger of breakage due to accident ("did I hook up the fuel solenoid?", "how many degrees retard per HP added?") for the danger of breakage due to the higher RPM of an NA engine with the same power.
Nitrous also does not screw up your idle quality, gas mileage, and traffic manners.

I have hit 10.70's in my 63 Sport Fury driving it to the track and racing it as its driven through the full exh on 92 pump. Its a 440/493 with 10.6 comp using Indy EZ heads and the Indy dual plane intake. I run a Holley 850 DP carb and a Mallory dist and MP ECU. I have not lightened it any as I wanted to get it in the 10's with everything on it. It still has the heater box and steel bumpers. I did get a glass hood as I did not want to cut my original hood when I put the scoop on it. The cam is a solid flat tappet from Dwayne Porter as its 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. Its in the eng on a 106 ICL. I use Hughes 1.6 roller tip rockers. Has TTI 2" headers and TTI 3" exh with Dyno-Max Ultra-Flow mufflers. Its a 727 with a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body and a Dynamic 9.5 converter. Has an 8-3/4 with 4.30 gears and I run a 30 x 9 rear tire. It weighs right around 3700 lbs without me and I added a rollbar and frame connectors. Best et is 10.76 and 125.31 mph. I really like the fact that I can drive the 45 miles to my local track and just bleed the rear tires a little and go run 10.70's and 10.80's. Its a real fun street car and I don't change a thing at the track as I race it just how I drive it. Ron

I wasnt clear. The Challengers specs were in referance of E body weights. The old race car was a 63 Dodge 498 with unported-1s and a factory cross ram.
Doug

Is boost an option?

512, good heads with a mild cam should hit that goal by accident.

Kevin

[quote=383man]I have hit 10.70's in my 63 Sport Fury driving it to the track and racing it as its driven through the full exh on 92 pump. Its a 440/493 with 10.6 comp using Indy EZ heads and the Indy dual plane intake. I run a Holley 850 DP carb and a Mallory dist and MP ECU. I have not lightened it any as I wanted to get it in the 10's with everything on it. It still has the heater box and steel bumpers. I did get a glass hood as I did not want to cut my original hood when I put the scoop on it. The cam is a solid flat tappet from Dwayne Porter as its 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. Its in the eng on a 106 ICL. I use Hughes 1.6 roller tip rockers. Has TTI 2" headers and TTI 3" exh with Dyno-Max Ultra-Flow mufflers. Its a 727 with a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body and a Dynamic 9.5 converter. Has an 8-3/4 with 4.30 gears and I run a 30 x 9 rear tire. It weighs right around 3700 lbs without me and I added a rollbar and frame connectors. Best et is 10.76 and 125.31 mph. I really like the fact that I can drive the 45 miles to my local track and just bleed the rear tires a little and go run 10.70's and 10.80's. Its a real fun street car and I don't change a thing at the track as I race it just how I drive it. Ron

[quote=383man]

pretty cool and where i ant to be with mine

my original plan was to use a blower but i think because of ease my power adder of choice would be nitrous

On your deal I wouldn't look at any power adders with a good sonic tested 400 block
Put a set of aluminum main caps and ARP main studs along with a good set of M.W heads and a good single plane intake with a 850 CFM or larger carb. with a 4.25 stroke crankshaft with a set of good forged pistons and rods that will give you between 10.0 up to 10.75 to 1 compression ratio for todays pump swill and tune it up so it EATS
Have fun, enjoy the thrill of lack of traction

In the OP’s first post:


Ron’s 63 is a great running combo, in a sweet looking ride for sure.

But...... that’s not “low” 10’s........ and it’s probably a few grand difference in $$$ too.

I have personally witnessed Ron drive that car into Cecil county...he was behind me in the line going in. Any way....he said his car was 3700? withought hin in it.... Put that driveline in a 3000lb A body...there you go LOW streetable Tens, maybe even a high 9 !
OK I went back, the OP has a 73 barracuda. Copy Rons combo and make sure the car weights 3100-3400...

Thank you and thanks to all of you for the kind words. I had made a mistake on my weight before as I had said 3725 with me but I meant without me and that's after I had added the rollbar and frame connectors. Its right around 3700 with a 1/2 tank of gas without me and I go about 180. The rollbar and frame connectors did add about 150 lbs because it weighed right about 3540 without me and about 1/4 tank of gas before the rollbar and frame connectors. Course it is the Sport Fury model which has the most options of the 63 model and should be the heaviest of the 63 Plymouths. Most racers used the Savoy since they are a bit lighter with less options. I also now realize my car don't fit the OP request as I just saw the headline saying …...10 second strokers and did not realize he wanted mid to low 10 second combo's. Sorry about that as that's my mistake. Thanks again to everyone for the kind words. Ron