Anyone have a good/bad experience using Evapo-Rust product? Looking to clean up a center section of a rear axle assembly. I was told to use the product, but wanted to obtain some feedback from the forum.

The stuff is absolutely awesome but you need to be careful with it.

It will remove rust but it will also remove other things like galvonizing.

Also it will leech through some plastic containers.

It's best to check on your parts as they soak, don't leave them in it too long.

Talk about timing.

I had two heads built up waiting to finish up the short block and had an issue with the crank.
Heads sat almost a month and got flash rust on them.

Took them apart and soaked them in a plastic tote and the Evaporust made them good as new.

If at all possible, submerge the entire part in the EvapoRust. If some of the piece is sticking out of the solution, an etching line can be created. If you must have a section of the part sticking out of the solution, you can put paper towels/shop towels around the part at the water line. This will help stop any etching line from forming.

Also, I soaked one of my window mechanisms in it. The spring on the mechanism had a lot of surface rust on it. After removing the mechanism from the EvapoRust, the spring was cracked. Those are the only two issues I've had with it. If you leave it submerged too long, it will remove factory paint markings when you rinse it off.

About a month ago, I cleaned up an 8 3/4 center section with it. I wish someone made a heavy duty plastic "form" that the center section would fit into. Then you would only need a small amount of EvapoRust to completely cover the part. You need a lot of product to cover a center section if you are using a bucket.

Been using Evaporust for around 10 years now.
Stuff works great.
My suspension parts come out looking like this from a 5 gallon container of the product.
Get your parts clean of all the grease and grime, with the cleaning solution of your choosing, and let them soak.

Parts soaked in sunlight come clean faster.

I put odd shaped parts in a plastic bag and then put the bag in a coffee can or whatever fits and then put stones, wood, or whatever I can find around the outside to fill up the void space. This uses less Evaporust than just filling the whole container up

It will bleach out plastic parts and heater box housings.

You can run it thru a paint strainer and re-use it.

I've seen guys use electrolysis on table saw tables by soaking a rag in the solution and then covering with plastic wrap. no need to submerge. Will Evoporust work that way if you keep it wet enough? I'd like to do my rearend housing this winter.

Driveshaft with result photos at https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...driveshaft.html

Evaporust works well if you can submerge the item but for large items I like to use a recirculating bath to continually wash over the part. The product for this is similar to Evaporust but has a thinner consistancy and is better for pumping. www.safestrustremover.com

I never heard that one about Evaporust before.
Why would that be?
Guess i'm never going to find out, as i soak out parts overnight, then into the morning, if need be.

Sunlight removes rust?

Sunlight has lots of infrared radiation. That makes the container and solution hotter. Maybe the chemical reaction proceeds faster at elevated temperatures?

Yes, while I have not gone so far as to record the time it takes to clean something in the shade vs in direct sunlight it does seem to work faster when left out in the sun on a warm day. I have a stainless steel pot I sometimes use and the sun warms the metal pot up pretty fast, which raises the temperature of the Evaporust.

I've let things soak inside before and it always seems to take a little longer.

Anybody use the molasses method? I think it's supposed to work faster when heated.

From my early chemistry class days, I seem to recall that a 10° Centigrade temperature increase (same as 18° F increase) doubles the speed of most chemical reactions.

[/quote]From my early chemistry class days, I seem to recall that a 10° Centigrade temperature increase (same as 18° F increase) doubles the speed of most chemical reactions. [/quote]

Learn something new every day.
But tomorrow morning i'm going to forget two things, old.

From my early chemistry class days, I seem to recall that a 10° Centigrade temperature increase (same as 18° F increase) doubles the speed of most chemical reactions. [/quote]

Learn something new every day.
But tomorrow morning i'm going to forget two things, old.[/quote]

Now that is hilarious. And so true.

I’m so old I told the wife to stop buying green bananas.

I've used Evaporust for years and years, it's awesome. I just bought another 13.2 litre pail today for $59.99 Canadian.

Yes all these solutions work better with elevated temps.(15-20* ) quick (35-50*)very active.
I use safest rust remover (but I make my own as I know the formula)
Evaporust has sulphur (hence the yellowish colour)
Molasses is slow but very effective.

Evaporust contains acid. Acid will eat rust first, but will also start to eat metals after that.

For me personally, I would have no problem at all using it on the outside of a rear end "pumpkin". Since the cast iron is so thick, it wouldn't hurt a thing. I would also soak the gears inside the pumpkin, but not leave it in the Evaporust too long (maybe an hour or two) so that I didn't eat away very much of the important metal inside the pumpkin. My 2-cents.