Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475120
03/31/18 11:42 PM
03/31/18 11:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540 Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
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master
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Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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When you say 49 degree, is this an altered 48 degree block? 48 degree block is a much better starting point for a performance build. No lifter clearance problems or port intrusion from pushrod pinch. Cam cores can be hard to find depending on journal size. Intake lifter location is spread wider for pushrod angle correction over the 59 degree blocks. Some of these low deck r3 48 degree blocks are dry sump oiling only, so I hope you are prepared for that. Also be prepared to part with some cash with rocker assys for this deal. Also if i recall correctly, the waterpump/ timing cover is different on the low deck height blocks.
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: TRENDZ]
#2475122
03/31/18 11:50 PM
03/31/18 11:50 PM
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 36 Arkansas
mopartyson
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Posts: 36
Arkansas
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Yes I meant 48 degree. I'm on my phone lol. It is dry sump which I'm told is not hard or exspensive to machine for wet sump. The cam bearings are 60mm. Like I said I'm out of my league here and wondering if the good deal on the block is worth it. $1500 for the block
Last edited by mopartyson; 03/31/18 11:52 PM.
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475123
03/31/18 11:51 PM
03/31/18 11:51 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Is this a wet or dry sump block would bore it to 4.185 and a then decide what stroke you want.. that bore is chevy.. are you gonna go injection or not
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475134
04/01/18 12:19 AM
04/01/18 12:19 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
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Master
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Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Yes it dry sump. Does anyone know about converting it to wet sump. Dry sump absolutely will not work for me. It will have to be carbed My R3 was a dry sump and I built it that way.. W-9 heads
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475142
04/01/18 12:42 AM
04/01/18 12:42 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,725 Portage,michigan
B3422W5
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 11,725
Portage,michigan
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If you are just doing the build for mud bogging fun lke your saying...... what you are embarking on is a very expensive journey. Just in heads and rocker gear you will have well North of 5 grand, everything else is expensive too.
Doubt i would go down that path just for kicks. Could build a 360/408 combo with heads and all for what you would have just in the top end of this thing.
Last edited by B3422W5; 04/01/18 12:43 AM.
69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight 418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam Best so far, low 10.30’s 1/4 1.41 best 60 foot 6.56 at 104.17
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475145
04/01/18 12:45 AM
04/01/18 12:45 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,197 PA.
pittsburghracer
"Little"John
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"Little"John
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,197
PA.
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I have a used 48 degree block and assembly that I haven’t touched yet. I have a 59 degree R3 in my black Duster. I posted some pictures of it while I was building it and another Moparts member suggested putting more oil drain back oil holes In The intake valley. Th previous owner drilled some but I drilled several bigger holes. I also bought an accumulator but it wasn’t needed
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475149
04/01/18 12:53 AM
04/01/18 12:53 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
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Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Dry sump and mud just ain't gonna mix I assume there is a way to take a dry sump block and turn it into a wet sump.. I never did it
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: B3422W5]
#2475171
04/01/18 01:57 AM
04/01/18 01:57 AM
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 36 Arkansas
mopartyson
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Arkansas
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If you are just doing the build for mud bogging fun lke your saying...... what you are embarking on is a very expensive journey. Just in heads and rocker gear you will have well North of 5 grand, everything else is expensive too.
Doubt i would go down that path just for kicks. Could build a 360/408 combo with heads and all for what you would have just in the top end of this thing. Some of these guys are running engines upwards of 25,000. It's get pretty serious, it's not just throwing a lil mud around. We go out of state to races. If you want to see what I'm talking about check out AMRA mud racing page on facebook. Or search horseshoe mud racing on youtube.
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2475173
04/01/18 01:59 AM
04/01/18 01:59 AM
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 36 Arkansas
mopartyson
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Arkansas
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Dry sump and mud just ain't gonna mix I assume there is a way to take a dry sump block and turn it into a wet sump.. I never did it I was reading something on it earlier but damned if I can find it now
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475174
04/01/18 02:03 AM
04/01/18 02:03 AM
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 36 Arkansas
mopartyson
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The class I would be in would be 800-1000hp trucks running a 1/4 mile long horseshoe shaped mud track. I know I'm not going to best route to win. I just want to build a stout small block dodge and put some dents in some chevys. This is a rough sport and the truck body and chassis gets replaced every couple years.
Last edited by mopartyson; 04/01/18 02:05 AM.
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Re: R3 build advice
[Re: mopartyson]
#2475224
04/01/18 11:10 AM
04/01/18 11:10 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540 Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
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master
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Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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Not speaking for the OP, but I think the dry sump problem would be the fact that it is belt driven. I can see why in mud you wouldn’t want a belt driven pump. I do like your work around! Sort of a hybrid dry/wet system
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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